| Hello Luke No that is a really easy one: - Stainless steel electric heaters with thermostatic control - 100% control of air exchange - Dehydrating of exhaust air and using the heat gain to reheating inlet air - Keeping controlled air +1-2°C above water at water temperature - Insulate all and it’s never thick enough. When we are talking media and trickling it a whole other story. We experienced very different results even with the same design just switching sizes and smallest with biggest surface was infect not best. Bridging and thin film action is the trick (we guess). We test water parameters and foam building at outlet as always. Problem is another angel of what you are implying. Realistic testing her is unfortunately only late May to September. This period gives natural outdoor conditions with sun from 06:30-11:30 and at its peak even later with light returning after ~2 hours. As we speak our Nishikigoi ponds are at 26°C and the dimmer is almost down to nighttime modus (its 22:51 her local time). So even if I agree that the different between A and B may be marginal so was it in the size quest on the first one that took us from somewhat functioning standard unit to a good unit that we hope will get better this year. So pleas feel free to comment. By the way misses your sharp “pen” in our light thread, welcome it would be even if you have to look a bit back in the pages
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Tone - Truls -Petter
Vogata NI
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