[Mark]

Close is the time approaching, at least in the Northern Hemisphere, when new koi are commonly added to existing population stocks. The following quarantine protocols and procedures are of my own design and I present them only in theoretical form for forum discussion and debate. Because of the many unknown variables I cannot be held liable for any consequences resulting from their use or implementation.



In General:

Since most of the following procedures will render a biological filter ineffective, the quarantine tank must have a system in place that will reduce the load of potential pathogens. A diatomaceous earth filter will remove suspended particulates, uneaten food and most suspended bacteria. A U.V. light is also advisable at the last return point into the quarantine the tank. Reducing organics would be facilitated by partial water changes.



If the treatment dose is too high or treatment times are too long, there is a danger of toxicity to the fish, frequently causing liver, kidney, or other organ damage that may or may not be reversible. Also, in any population an individual may have an adverse (allergic) reaction resulting in death.



Between each treatment step the koi should be given a rest period to recover from any toxic effects from the previous treatment period. 5-10 days is usually sufficient if no side effects were observed in any koi.



Salt (sodium chloride) is a prophylactic treatment and not to be used in any of these procedures as it may cause some of the doses to be toxic or ineffective.



Water temperature is adjusted to 70F (75F optimized) or higher stimulates the koi immune system and also accelerates the adult/larval life cycle of parasites.



KHV and SCV virus is beyond the scope of this article as I feel unqualified to discuss it. If present, it will however reveal itself during the quarantine period.



Check for anchor worms (lernea). Remove them before treatments start.



Step 1 (10 day duration)

Antibiotic procedures are the logical first step because of possible injuries and stress resulting from transport and handling. The most cost effective and commonly used method to deliver antibiotics is orally by mixing them into food. The proper dose of antibiotic is mixed into the feed using fish oil or canola oil as a binding agent, and the mixture is then fed to the fish for the prescribed number of days. It is preferred that antibiotics are obtained through veterinarian health specialist that will be able to provide information on legal constraints for specific antibiotics, information for correct dosages, and proper methods of administration. Under no circumstances are “pet store” antibiotics utilized unless an expiration date is given. Most bacteria that infect fish fall into one of two groups – gram-positive or gram-negative. Treat koi with Erythromycin (gram-negative) antibiotics for no less than 10 days.



Step 2 (10 day duration)

Treat koi with penicillin or ampicillin (gram-positive) antibiotics for no less than 10 days. After conclusion of the last antibiotic procedures one needs supplement the diet with probiotic (reestablishing of bacteria or microflora in the gut of the fish) bacteria.They include the families of Lactobacillus and Bifidus bacteria. More digestible feed containing high levels of wheat germ and spirulina are strategically used at this point.



Step 3 (7-14 day duration)

For intestinal nematode infections of ornamental fish, several anthelminthics (dewormers) are available. Three effective and commonly used dewormers are praziquante,l fenbendazole and levamisole. Fenbendazole can only be used as a feed additive. Watch for voided tapeworms in feces. Depending on what choice of drug treatment is used, steps 3 and 4 could be a single step treatment.



Step 4 (14 day duration)

For external flukes, liver flukes, internal parasites and internal worms use Supaverm or praziquantel as per directions. Do opercular scrapes to confirm absences of flukes before step 5 is initiated.



Step 5 (14 day duration)

Before initiating the last, and most stressful, one might consider a detoxifying period of 14 days before treating with malachite green and formalin. This is available in several commercial formulations and will eradicate the adult forms of ich, costia, trichodina and chilodonella.



Step 6 (14 days)

One should consider combining a few members of the "old" or "resident" population with a few members of the "new" population in another system for a week or two at the end of the quarantine period. This approach will help determine if any subclinical infections are present (subclinical means that a very low level of disease is present but not causing obvious symptoms). If this is the case, these diseased fish present in the resident population may cause disease in the new fish or the opposite may occur.

Regards,
Mark