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kfg, good to hear your putting in the four inch cap pipes, i bet theyll come in handy later on. save you a lot of time and pumping drama for sure.
its even possible to use an angle and a lenght and a screen to get them to clean out you sump area of its mud/crud.
i cant rememebr what you were dong in regards to aeration but ive seen a system using the seimens blowers. it worked beautifully and they are very long lasting. its no the best way of adding 02 but you might employ one to run a few lifts in a few ponds.. you can run the line along the front and us electrical conduits to suck the water from a depth or even further away from the front run off air pipe.. for example you can put one pipe near vertical one running form half way back the pond and one running from the rear. its a releatively cheap simple way of getting stirring and o2 happening.
im waiting for a new type of aerator to hit production and ill let you know about it when its there.
hey steve hows things with the little paddlewheel you are making? ever seen those plastic birds stuck to a bowl on tom and jerry and they dip in and out havi a drink? i wonder if that can be run to break surface tension in a bigger way with a little pump filling up a beak of somesorts.
whatdya reckon, give that a go?
maurice, i suppose your source water has buffering ability already. could be that most waters have already.. i wonder about my tap water though when it comes out a 8.3. never got a full analyses of that stuff..
i wonder if the amount of water coming from the bore over the years has used up all the lime underground.
that way of tilling/drying sure is more thorough than i what ive paractised.
they do say the best is to dry for all winter but where i am, we are always looking to get another crop in.
when we want another pond we let it go a week in full sun then lime, (hydrated) for killing wet areas. i have seen trash fish handle the ag lime treatment but if you can get a full dry and till going your laughing.
it does interest me the different thoughts on what bugs and bacteria are there and then get killed..or may survive under the mud.. like how are they there to start with.. why wont they be back next time anyway.
it could be that my crops could be much better than they are.
best crop if ever heard of was when the pond was overfewrtilised and everything died.. it was then treated with potassium permangenate to kill bugs.. then it was bred in and it yeilded twice as much as normal.. but at that time no fertilisers had been used prior on that farm and the fist time it was used it was too harsh then after the treatment it would be assumed it wasa fairly sterile pond with the perfect amount of fertiliser for a crop to go great and survive.
thats the thing youd want to replicate, the right liming then the right egg number combined with air and the right fertiliser mix. a bit of luck with the weather.. then youd be farming steadily good numbers.
im pretty interested maurice in how you earate if any and how you ensure decent air in the ponds.. while you trap heat in..
there must be a hard to work out dynamic going on there surely.
ive read about computer controlled tomato houses down south using copper water pipes to warm the roots whgich run off old oil. and auto shitters that create the right humidity and co2 injection.. i wonder if that intensive approach would work for you to advantage. the owner reckoned without that extra heat he wouldnt make his bussiness profitable so something like that may help you.
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