|
a few things here kfg, do what steve said and use a 90 degree elbow, it dont matter how deep the pipes are in the ground. the deeper the better anyway cause that allows you to use even less pumping.you get real control over water heights this way. if theyre down deep and can drain to waste as well you are laughing. show us a pic.
im wondering which side you have the pipes through the wall.. whether they are on the long side between ponds- so if you drained the water it just goes into the next pond or are they positioned down the short harvest end where you can drain it to waste?
both wouldnt of hurt for better control of water. but im hoping atleast youve put one in the ditch short end.
if not drill or dig one in or run a bendy pipe through the top of the bank with valve at base of ditch and a brick holding the other end in the pond under, and leave it primed..how? put a pump on the end for a minute and then shut it off once its siphoning. then its a drain tap.
even if its just two inches diameter.
anyway if your 4 inch is only linking ponds then also defintaley have the ability to overflow the top of your pond to waste, it might be that two ponds side by side cant take anymore water in times of flooding..a simple open pipe at desired height will do you.
either way though, on the four inch deep pipes, use the ninety elbow and enough pipe (3 and a half foot?)
inserted into that elbow to go up higher than water surface level and just below pond wall height, then push it down a bit lower..leave it higher than water level still (operating level governed by the horizontal waste overflow) if your worried about sectioning off disease concerns from next pond. you can leave it tilted on any angle to get your running height, tilt over lower to drain out..
i think you should read up some stuff on disease.
i think your ponds are linked.. so what are you gonna do about disease transfer between ponds anyway?? think alternatively.
DONT panic.
look at it from another direction, i suggest if you look at it from another direction youll get less disease than thinking disease is looming and just waiting for you to flow water from one pond to the other..
a while ago i mentioned that a farming system that flows all the way through is no good, i meant that more for bloom and pond succession control, itd be ok for bigger fish but you need to exercise some management control over some ponds. the more you control easily the better
quarrantine all your incoming fish and dont over do anything to start with.
dont overfeed dont overstock dont overfertilize dont under air. if no air.. understock till you can buy air. as for stocking rates.. try ask your local boys.
thats more important a call.
if you get disease your not just gonna stop it by avoiding water transfer..hangon how can i put this.. dont just try stop disease by stopping water transfer between ponds. not that you want to flow constant but you will want to transfer sometimes.
stop disease by understanding how it occurs and try not let it occur..if it occurs or likely to occur then dont transfer.
believe me, sometimes you could take a disease pond water and throw twenty litres into a non diseased pond and it wont infect that pond.. cause your treating it right in other ways. depending on the nature of the disease.
so for some diseases however this might be a real bad idea and people are gunna freak for me giving you such a theory..that type of thing is the exception and not the normal..its not like your farm is totally ruined once disease is there. its not a fibreglass tank that can get cleaned and dried easy.
youve got a lot of ponds and its near impossible to clean or sterilize them all at once withought sending out your stock somehwere else.
you just do what you can and understand the processes.
ussually people will jump straight to a drastic chemical cure as first resort not the last..try take away the cause..sometimes you may take away cause with a chemical but as long as you rememebr the original cause youve done well to avoid needing it next time.
ive seen one farmer that uses a nasty chemical as part of the production cycle but thats kinda missing the point really. i dont think we need to push it way into the unatural when we can do well on a famr of good size with pretty good management and very well with excellent management.
I reckon youll find if you remove it from your broodfish and look after stocking and feeding rates and water q. your doing it right. keep an eye out, know your fish. know your water and know when your pushing the envelope.
its very hard to stop water from one pond going into the next under normal farming operations even without them linked.
sometimes youll practise seeding, sometimes youll want to drop water to the next to run fish into it without the fillup time and settlement time..
if theyre linked your working around that now and approach it right and itll be ok.
diesease can get around on nets, via buckets, it takes a very pedantic person, to avoid that type of contamination.. that shouldnt be the word we are using here though.
all YOUR WATER IS GONNA BE LIFE NOT DEATH! mostly.
the thing you want to avoid are the parasite ones from the start.
argulas, worms.. that sort of thing.
others that develop from overfeeding crowding etc are avoidable mostly.if you see this develop stop any water flow or should i say transfer between ponds and work out what you did wrong then treat it.
remmebr i mentioned wanting the ability to drain all water out to waste or effluent and complete dry? thats so you can kill a disease pond, quick and start again..
i think that why our fisheries make it like this for an all control approach but whos got bucks for that.
but back to your pipes..
so this set up would be called a standpipe, you can have the elbow in the pond or outside the wall near a drain ditch. if you want to lower the level you simply lay it over to the height you want, screen the top with fine mesh.
im wondering also about the one inch pipe from well, is that because you have small pump only, i cant remmeber the capacity.. if its a decent pump, try upsize the pipe run. you want to run it into a corner away from ripping up your wall though. somewhere out and away of the harvest entry point. you can only get so much aeration here, its mainly to fill your pond ok. best to have it most efficent at filling the pond. the pipe run into the ground at lowest height possible IE just abouve any water level you wish to fill to and the least elbows and restrictions..
check out pumping losses.. ie, pumping head hieght, suction head height, elbows, tees, lenghts of run, pipe diameter.. all those things. read up.
it might seem strange but if youve got a small pump, they dont like running long distances and heights..pump it up and into a larger diameter that acts more of a distribution channel than anything else. imagine an open channel that distributes water with no restrictions..then again maybe you dont have cheap pipe available. 16 ponds and a little pump and a lot of fills and all the restricitons will add up.
it may be best for you to locate a second hand pump later to do the job right once your producing some bucks and using more ponds.
i gotta bail for a while. good farming.
|