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Old 05-21-2005   #51 (permalink)
Honmei
 
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Bringing this to the top for Marco.
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Old 05-21-2005   #52 (permalink)
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Very interesting,Mike thanks a lot.

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Old 05-31-2007   #53 (permalink)
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Bumping it up for a new seeker of answers.
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Old 03-29-2008   #54 (permalink)
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Bumping up for Lam. ... Seems to be an annual thing to do.
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Old 03-29-2008   #55 (permalink)
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Wow!!! Lots of good info. Particularly your stuff on ST, Roddy.I still have a problem with Chlorine loss. I thought chloramines were used to lower the level of chlorine, in the water, because it dissipated at about ¼ the rate of chlorine. And I assumed the incoming water to be quite pure so the chlorine was only there for bacteria in the distribution lines.On water changes, the Steinhart Aquarium in San Francisco thinks 10% is too low for a ‘properly stocked’ pond. They change 25%.Kudos to the folks who dump their vortexes every day Anybody using bead filters should be dumping them at least once a day too. In a relatively clean pond, that’s where the largest supply of DOCs come from. If you’re after high ORP, why would you leave the waste trapped in the stream through the beads?
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Old 03-29-2008   #56 (permalink)
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Wow, you guys are da'bomb! This is exactly what I needed. This really makes sense as to why we should change at least 10% of pond water a week. Thank you guys and thank you Mike for bumping this up for me and other hobbyists........gotta go make my water change and watch my koi grow!
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Old 03-31-2008   #57 (permalink)
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Thanks for bringing it up. Matter of fact that, if I see any waste in the filter, I'll immediately do a back wash even daily {a 5 min work!!}. That's my rule of thumb. So, I enjoy my koi with problem free.....

"a weekly 10% water change is just a procedure set to remind oneself, on minimum work need to be done." We take care of the water condition, let the koi take care themselves.
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Old 03-31-2008   #58 (permalink)
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I posted this on another thread, but allow me to repost for opinions; do I improve my water quality by increasing cleaning of filters? changing water more frequently? adding equipment?

Three filter lines:
1. skimmer/alpha bead (9 cu-ft) /UV/heater/tpr's;
2. Aerated BD/ss vortex/bakki shower (100kg BH media) flow rate 500 to 7500 gph;
3. BD/ss vortex/bakki shower (100kg BH media) flow rate 500 to 7500 gph.

Water changes/maintenance:
1. Weekly, 1000 gallons replaced with softened GH 4dH, and filtered carbon filter;
2. Weekly clean skimmer basket, pump baskets, backwash alpha bead and ss vortex's.

Still get foam on surface after GH dropped to 4dH. All else fine
-no hair algae, no disease, scrapes heal in three to four weeks.
Load: 2x 30", 5x 21" to 25", 4x 12" to 15". Feeding Once per day during the week.

Water parameters: Temp (pond) 68f to 71f rising, PH 8.3 to 8.5 steady, GH 4dH, KH 9, NH4/3, NO3, NO2=0, DO 6.7 to 7.5 (varies with water motion at probe) ORP 230 to 260 rising (probe may need cleaning/recalib), Koi only pond, surface coat of algae (less then 1/2").

Comments please.
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Old 03-31-2008   #59 (permalink)
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Bob: I am very biased in favor of using multiple types of filtration and lots of fresh water. From other posts, I know your pond is around 8300 gallons (U.S.). You are changing 10-12% per week. The pond is not over-stocked (But you end up with 11 30+" koi, watch out! ) So, given my biases, I would like to see a mat-based filter or moving kaldnes or a foam fractionator added to give more variety; and I'd like to see water additions increase to not less than 25% per week and preferably 35%. Having to choose between the two, I would go to 35% per week water changes. If you can do daily trickle of 5-10% (35% - 70% per week), all the better.

The key thing to remember about water changes is that the goal is to maintain stability of pond parameters. If the deterioration of water parameters is quick (as in an over-stocked situation), then a single big water change has a roller coaster effect on water parameters. It is far better to do several smaller water changes in such a situation. Also, if the source water is being altered before going in the pond, care has to be exercised in regard to the flow rates of the altered water. Again, a continuous trickle is better.

Now, as to my choice of water changes over added variety in filtration: First, because I know you really care about your koi, I'm assuming you are getting effective nitrification even in heavy feeding periods. Second, in over 40 years of keeping aquaria, I learned that nothing did as much to give good results than large, frequent, regular water changes. Until a few years ago, I had a very low-tech pond that was very labor intensive to maintain. I nonetheless had healthy fish that grew quite well. (Not high quality show fish, mind you.) I did 50% weekly water changes as a norm. I kept close watch on my water to be sure this was not too much. There were periods of heavy leaf drop, etc., when mid-week water changes were needed to avoid too much deterioration from tannins, dissolved organics, etc. The pond parameters were kept virtually identical to the source water. Filtration can control the most toxic wastes, but does not eliminate nitrates, pheromones, hormones, dissolved organics, etc. and does not replace the mineral content consumed by the bio-processes of the pond.

One concern: The algae on the pond walls adds a dimension to the pond dynamics... a positive one IMO. Water changes result in the algae becoming exposed to the drying atmosphere. The algae can be killed off in the top zone of the pond wall, especially if exposed to the sun during water changes. This would impact how much water I would be willing to change at one time. (BTW, ever notice how after a water change the koi graze more heavily on the pond wall algae within a few inches of the surface than is usual? The drying effect of the air exposure during the water change seems to make the algae more tender and tasty... perhaps a bit like the dried seaweed collected in Japan is better dried than fresh??)
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Old 03-31-2008   #60 (permalink)
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very good post.
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