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Old 02-16-2005   #11 (permalink)
Tosai
 
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hi if i can get it to post this is mine.
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Old 02-16-2005   #12 (permalink)
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Bakki and TT work well because air has 250,000 times the saturerated oxygen content of water. If one cover those design the efficiency goes down. If you expose it or even using an electrical fan the effiency goes up .... but at the price of loosing water temperature.


Submerged media is not as effiency in oxidization but not too sensitive to ambient temperature. Mix and match in filtration types would produce the best combination result. Donald
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Old 02-16-2005   #13 (permalink)
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donald
my shower works great it is not a stand alone setup at the opisite end to the shower i have a vortex and a 5 bay filter since i put the shower on touch wood i have never had a problem with amonia or nitrite or 02 and with the poly carb cover i dont have much of a problem with temp drop maybe 1deg c.
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Old 02-16-2005   #14 (permalink)
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I think the only concern I have is the degassing when a pond and filter is covered. As long as it can vent and still only flux one or two degrees I think your system will work just fine!

I loose two degres during the night and by midday it's back to where i have it set.
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Old 02-16-2005   #15 (permalink)
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Akai, the evaporative cooling can be a benefit for koi in Hawaii because it takes the edge off our sub-tropical climate. My extreme winter low water temp is about 20-21C (68-70F) and the summer extreme high is about 26-27C (79-81F) in full sun, 24C in the shade.

-steve
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Old 02-17-2005   #16 (permalink)
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very true about how the covering up to reduce temp loss also reduces oxygen input and degassing
i was thinking more a fan that was hooked up to some ducting or pvc piping that came from your house or garage or basement or wherever the temp is suitable.
maybe a bit of trouble depending where your pond is..but i reckon the heating bill would be lots less this way.
i know that in aquaculture food grow out, under high loads, that oxygen is used direct from oxygen bottles to the recirc system, systems in which hold about 40 kilos fish per cubic metre.
they are either injected into a venturi, ozontaor, fractionator, the biofilter or run into the top of a pyramid unit that has the oxygen exposed to a water flow constantly, this reduces waste and allows for near to 100% efficency as it doesnt bubble off but stays until it dissolves into the water.
gives about zero temp loss.
where i live oxygen is about five times dearer than america. atleast so im told that oxy bottles are everywhere in america.
we had a guy from america showing the technology and the costings.. he was like " oh you guys have to pay too much for your oxygen."

so i wouldnt recommend this unless cash is not a problem.
i spose if you have stock thats worth thousands and thousands it might be worth it to have the temperature and other parameters fluctuating minimally.
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Old 02-17-2005   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeM
Akai-San: If those are water temp swings, I'd be concerned. But, I expect those are air temps, in which case I doubt your water temps in a deep pond are varying more than 5-6 degrees on the "worst" days.
You are correct. Those temperatures are air temps. I never really thought about the differences in water temperatures as it relates to air temperatures....hmmmmmm thanks for the clarification. Yet another thing to research...Do koi mind that 5-6 degree change? In the wild, I'm thinking they will have temperature swings based on depth of water. Aloha.
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Old 02-17-2005   #18 (permalink)
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Well, the last time we talked about it, they did not seem to think it was a big thing.
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Old 02-17-2005   #19 (permalink)
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akai-san, if you take a glass of water put it outside on a warm day, it will reach that temperature real quick. same on a cold night.
do it with a 4000 lite tank itll probably reach it also but much slower.depending on aeration, wind, if its suspended, on the ground or dug in etc.
do it with a 1 million litre pond it probably wont reach it.
ive had 2 degree c nights and the pond still is 10 degrees c.
i once aked a bloke and he reckoned his big ponds wouldnt go much below 12 degrees c in the mid of our winter when we may have a series of 5 degree nights. theres always the warmer earth coming into play here.
sheer volume of water also dictates that it cant get there (swing) quick enough before the sun and air temp comes up to warm it again.

ussually the top of a static pond will be warm if theres no stirring of the layers but the bottom of the pond will be as cool as on a hot day and comparitively warm on a freezing night.

ive noticed if you quickly change the water temp by 4 degrees c it will screw with the fish. greater changes will see them dead pretty quick, especially if its from cool to hot! the cooling is not as much a problem for older fish and not too much to be concerend with.
incidentally ive had koi jump out of the water and be stuck for hours on a float in the winter morning and still be alive and revived them.
you know how long they live out of water on a hot day...

a slower temp change is not so scary either way, when we move fish from one tank to a pond or whatever we do it slowly,as would happen with a bakki anyway, and i reckon koi are fairly tough to temp compared to most other fish.
but this is one reason why the deeper pond will have the happier fish, all things swing more slowly and you can rest easier.

in oz traditionally most people breed their kois beggining the long weekend in october when we get a raise in temperature.
in bigger deeper ponds we may have four week old fingerlings by this date because they are less prone to a cold night swing in a big volume of water.
you can get a koi to breed before the long weekend period so to say but most likely a hobbiest will have their babies perish outside in a smaller body of water when a cold night hits.
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Old 02-19-2005   #20 (permalink)
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Another question comes to mind now. I have planned a Q-Tank adjacent the main pond that will be half the depth (42") of the main pond (6'-7')and approximately 1200 gallons. When treating fish or even if I keep small koi in the Q-Tank, does the size of the koi make a difference in there tolerability of temperature changes or are smaller koi more susceptable to illness in temp. swing conditions of a significantly smaller pond/tank?
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