Sanity Check Please

[Bancherd]

I am thinking of a design for my new pond. I would appreciate critical evaluations of what I have in mind. Details are as follow: :idea:

Water Flow: ~ one way, from shallow to deep end
Dimensions: 4m x 8m x depth(sloped :1.2m~ 2.5m. at deep end)
Bottom Drains: at deep end.
Mid-water outlets: on wall at deep end ( do I need these?)
Water Inlet: at shallow end via gravity flow
Surface Skimmers: on sides near water inlet, and at deep end(oppposite inlet)
Mechanical Filter: tilted microscreen as suggested by "bil".==> requires very low head
Biological Filter: not yet finalized
Pump: water is pumped from skimmers, mid-water outlets, and bottom drains using "airlift tubes" ==>high volume, low head. Koi poops are not minced.

(Water is pumped by the airlift-tubes to flow over microscreen)

What do you think? Have I gone off the deep-end? :shock:

Regards,

Bancherd

[Ruth Rice]

Hi Bancherd,
Why mid water outlets?
Ruth

[shiromujigirl]

Why air lift tubes?

I would put the midlevel water pickups even if you don't hook them up to anything-----yet.

[Bancherd]

Ruth: Midwater pickups to avoid possible stagnant area.

SMG: I am thinking about the airlift tubes for the following reasons:
1) low head required
2) they should act as good degasser/aerator
3) high efficiency
4) simplicity, low maintenance

I think the "paddle wheel" approach as suggested by Peter Menear should work just as well, but might be less effective in pulling water from the bottom drains(my guess).

[shiromujigirl]

As I understand it, Bil's brilliant slope microscreen prefilter is fed by a bottom drain 4 inch standpipe, it flows down across the self rinsing screen dripping down into the biofilter and the biofilter is pumped from the back. This creates an ever lower water water level from pond to screen chamber to biofilter, which is why the bottom drain water is welling up from the standpipe in the first place. Turn off the pump and all the water levels equalize and nothing happens.

So you want to drive air into the bottom drain standpipe to cause it to well up and return from the biofilter via gravity?

[dick benbow]

gREETINGS OLD PINK PANTHER!
most of the topics I wanted to comment on, have already been addressed. I do think when it comes to skimmers you want them at the opposite end of your water input so that the natural current you've set up to flow to the deeper end is utilized .
I do think SMG's idea of putting something inplace whether you intend to use it immediately is not a bad idea. that way if you fine tune your pond and need access you'll have it.

[Bancherd]

Quote: Originally Posted by shiromujigirl So you want to drive air into the bottom drain standpipe to cause it to well up and return from the biofilter via gravity?

Yes....This should be more effective in preventing possible settlement in the area since the bottom drains are so deep.. Likewise for the surface skimmers where I could locate the lift-tubes right at the prefilter section.

Hi Dick: I agree about the midwater, I will have them. (I was so pale when I was in Puyallup, WA. Now, I am nicely tanned and no longer pink. :lol: )

I plan to have two surface skimmers near the water inlet(one on each side) to handle possible foam problems.....just in case. If they are not needed, I can always close them off.

[shiromujigirl]

How many gallons per hour have you figured these lifts can draw?

I thought the name of this thread was salinity check at first.

[Ruth Rice]

Are you all calling the midwater outlets the same as a midlevel pickup and/or would water be taken from the pond or put back in to the pond at mid level height? :?
Ruth

[Bancherd]

Ruth: Sorry for the confusing terminology. I plan to pull water from the pond using these "midwater outlets".

SMG: My estimate is ~ 7-10 GPM(US) per tube. I will need to use multiple tubes. My plan is to turn over the pond every 1.5~ 2.0 hours.
Hmm, I am starting to get the drift. Do you think this approach would not work? :cry: