What is your perfect Filtration System?

[bil]

3 bottom drains, screens, static K and then to TT.

[Akai-San]

I think I'm starting to grasp the understanding and the concept of dealing with heavy solids and trying to isolate and dumping solids before entering the filtration system. Using a possible combination of a vortex and seive at bottom drains. However, in the midst of selecting a filtration system...I have noticed that Bead type Filters or pressurized systems has been openly trashed by the experienced hobbiest/breeders. What else is out there that I have not looked into. A filtration system that does not require physical back breaking cleaning of filter sponges, matting, brushes, media etc. etc. Is a UVC and the TT (if sized right) enough for polishing water to go back into the pond? I feel like something is missing...but of course...I KNOW NOTHING! Thanks again people for all your wisdom and patience with this anal newbie. Aloha.

[Akai-San]

Quote: Originally Posted by bil 3 bottom drains, screens, static K and then to TT.

bil

Static K? Sorry.

[bil]

Google kaldnes.

It's a medium designed to work when fluidised. However, if kept static, it collects and holds fine particles without compressing them and forcing organics into solution.

Naturally it should not be used as primary solids removal, an dneeds to be fluidised to flush out solids regularly.

[Akai-San]

Thanks for the clarification bil. I did read a lot about filter media. I guess learning the abbreviations will come with time. TT, K, UV, BD, VC, SPP, BF, SP and the list goes on...hahaha.

[Tony Prew]

I am a strong supporter of passive filtration
I have had great success with vortex systems
Most folks like to scrimp on pipe sizing( this is a big mistake !)
One of my house ponds is 10,000 gallons 12ft x 14ft 8.5ft depth
I designed my own bottom drain simply because I could not find one that I felt was suitable for my system(vortex style with six inch pvc smooth elbow)
Actually designed my vortex also after being unsuccessful finding one that I thought would be proper foor my design( the vortex needed to be able to handle six inch pvc fittings in and out as well as four inch waste drain fittings)
I strongly recommend using pvc knife valves to flush waste
Vortex system is gravity fed with the pump returning water to the pond, therefore getting slow passage through the system allowing the bacteria a long time to process and getting maximum settling in each chamber
This system consists of four chambers, the first for settling, and the next three for biological filtration with japaneses filter mat cartridges all coming from one of my six inch drains. I use a 160 watt uv for algae control
Have fifty koi between 18 inches and 30 inches
It takes me one minute each day to service the system feeding once a day
Hence feed twice flush twice
Fish health and growth are very good
I have also incorporated caldness into one of these systems with great success, but be warned caldness by itself is not adequet for filtration in my opinion and believe me I have put it to the test( it is a slow starter and at first must be added slowly to the system to become nuetral bouyantcy) you can use a pond defoamer(wetting agent) to settle the caldness faster)
Fish should be introduced slowly into the system as the bacteria developes quite slow
Also if you drop your fish load significantly the active bacteria load will crash
I spent five years designing my system, so do not rush,

Good Luck with your system !!

Tony Prew

[bil]

Knife valves can be a problem to replace and they do have a habit of going wrong. There is a variety that can be stripped in situ from the top. Either that or fit ball valves.


I have heard that a soak in pp can speed the plough with getting kaldness to settle.

[Bob Winkler]

B Scott....


Noise from the Bakki Shower.. I find mine has plenty of noise....from the "chambers" and the exit. How do you propose to minimize it? More media so "less splash"? Or just by the exit? TIA!

[B.Scott]

I hear ya Bob. I was thinking in terms of a tradional tt rather than a bakki shower. One of the reasons Bakki's are a bit more audible is the fall from module to module. the other is the massave amounts of water used.
That said there are still a couple of options that I think might help somewhat. First a drip plate instead of a spraybar. Second have the exit fall onto a <45°
slanted surface.

A traditional TT uses less water and doesn't normally have the space between trays (though it might) This is what I was thinking of.

B.Scott

[Mike T]

My 4 Bakki bins sit in a Basin surrounded by Matala Mats to control noise... Approx. 2700 gph goes rushing through the bins which are filled with 5 kilo each... 2" pipe exits basin at 60 degree angle, dropping 2' and enters pond at 6" below surface... Again very little noise and a whole lot of volume... Bakki sits on property line approx 7' from my neighbors bedroom... Can't be heard while standing on his side of fence...

One disclaimer: I do say "what’d you say" a lot during normal conversations...

Aloha! Mike