20,000+gph, 1.5Amps, 115 volt pump

[luke frisbee]

called "ice eaters", and made by Power House Inc
http://www.thepowerhouseinc.com/aquaculture.asp

Go to the "ice eater" page.....
The way I see it these will be an eco-friendly (and wallet friendly) way to move massive amounts of water.....if you read my LONG very LONG threads on koivet then you'll have the story on my search for this product and how the internet was a big part of making it possible.
I've always held the opinion that teven the "best koi pond pump" was not engineered to meet the goal of the koi hobbyist, but was simply existing product dealers identifying a niche and filling it.
These "pumps" are designed to keep boat slips free of ice in the Winter. They draw very little electricity and if properly designed into a koi pond/filtration system could be the best choice for many years to come.
I plunked down the plastic and paid the $370 to get the small one. In months I'll have more answers.
But these pumps are used by oyster farmers, lots of oyster farmers. They work well and in saltwater...
What do you all think.
(yes I am excited. I stupidly have been building a 40,000gallon+ and when it got down to getting Pumps I realized I was going to have to pay a fortune to get a good turnover. Now I won't.)

[B.Scott]

Ok Luke,
I had a look and they are interesting. But what will you use them for? They aren't pumps so much as water cirulators. If you just want to push water around the pond, ok fine. But is you need to feed the filter or anything like that I don't see how this is going to work. Please explain!
B.Scott

[JasonS]

Picture a large submerged filter chamber that is gravity fed and the same level as the pond. Like the side chambers on many of the ponds shown in Koi-Bito.

Now rather than using a jump filter or bead filter you just push water out a very large TPR or set of TPRs. Keep the head pressure low (less than 2 feet) and a pump like the ones Luke has been looking at should do very nicely.

I think he should have a skimmer circuit that terminates in a wet/dry shower-style filter as well. But the drain circuit is just all about moving water around for settlement and bio.

[luke frisbee]

BS...gee you look like St Ephen and your initials fit...I wonder?
Jason did a good job of explaining what I am going to attempt to me...but then I already had the idea...did you understand it?
It will have Very large plumbing. I plan on having some adjustable "skimmers" so the ice eater doesn't drain the filter to the catastrophic level.....since all I have is a six inch pipe feeding to it (right now).

[B.Scott]

Luke, jason talks about keeping the head below two feet... I think 3" is more accurate. If you use 6" to 8" pipes and keep the VERY short it might be OK. No trouble if you actually design for it at the outset. The returns will have to be a large diameter as well!

Low blow comparing me to Fphen. I always had a soft spot for ya, now way go and get nasty?

[luke frisbee]

BS
My return will be a hole in the common wall between the filter and the pond in which the "pump" will be placed (hopefully flowing in the right direction)

[B.Scott]

Yes I can see that working. Your return would then be something in the way of a wide wier (overflow) in the filter, back into the pond?
B.Scott

[luke frisbee]

Nope it is going to be below the waterline. I'll measure the pump and fit an 8-12 inch diameter pvc pipe when I build it....probably.
the thing will be horizontal through the wall at the bottom of the filter bay but halfway up on th epond side

[Pacificcoastkoi]

Luke,

I would also like to know how much head height are you going to push? and what will the size of your return plumbing be?

[Pacificcoastkoi]

Ok,

I think I understand it now .You are not neccesaarilly using this an air lift pump? You are relying on the water movement to create a vaccum and move the water thru the filter chamber by placing the pump in the chamber and moving the water back in the direction of the pond? Or am I completely lost?