Creative Covering for Outside Pond in Spokane

[B.Scott]

I have a double walled lexan cover on my pond. Just as with with the polycarbonate that Regenmeneer uses, this 2nd hand from the greenhouse industry. Four inches of snow on it today but it doesn't melt. Without heating I'm still at 9*C

[junglegeorge12]

Lexan and fiberglass work great. The plastic works good, but can be improved by wrapping twice, and by adding a layer on the inside of each curve.

By the time you pay for all those pvc fittings, lexan or fiberglass is not only easier but the price looks much better. PVC pipe is cheap, but they make their money on those fittings. Two sheets of clear fiberglass from a glass company are pretty cheap.

[junglegeorge12]

Another idea is to put insulation board on it and glue it to a fiberglass sheet, with a removable piece for a viewing and sunlight window during the day. At night put the extra board over the viewing window. You can get a very good R factor that way, especially if you glue plastic to the outside of the insulation board and over the edges, put silicone between the edges of the insulation board sheets, and paint it black.Another idea is to put any air pumps you have inside, so they inject warm air into your water. Your house heating system probably is more efficient than your pond heater, so it won't cost anything additional, just save.

[Charlie_23456]

I used greenhouse roofing sheeting on 2x2 framing on mine. Seems to keep my pond warmer during the winter. Warms it up during the day and keeps the chill out during the night. I just use a push broom to get the snow off.

[bekko]

I make PVC greenhouses to get a couple of extra degrees for clownfish during the Hawaiian winter. I used to do the same thing in a no-snow US Zone 8.5 to keep plants and ponds from freezing.

You can cut a 10-foot length of 1/2 inch EMT conduit into three 40-inch pieces. Drive pieces of conduit into the ground about a foot or so. Then, slide a piece of 3/4-inch PVC pipe over the conduit. This helps keep the side wall straighter for more head room, and anchors the pipe bows securely in place.

I use cheap 4-mil polyethylene plastic with no insulation and plan on throwing the poly sheet away in the spring. It will last for 12 months in US Zone 8.5, but only 6 months in Hawaii. Its the UV that kills it.

I rip strips of wood lattace 1.5 inches x 0.2 inches and attach them to the two end bows with cable ties. A piece of 1x3 pine is attached to the pipe bows at ground level. This gives you something to staple the poly sheet to. I figure the cost is about one-dollar per square foot for the conduit, pipe, poly sheet, wood and fasteners. The whole thing can be removed in about an hour and the frame components are reusable.

The humidity is a curse and a blessing. Everything stays wet, but the high humidity prevents further evaporative heat losses. When the humidity is 100%, there is no more evaporation. Evaporative heat losses are usually number three after convective and radiant losses.

I once left the poly sheet on a plant greenhouse into the summer in Zone 8.5 - after the plants were removed, of course. The thing literally melted when the outside temperature reached 90F+. I have no idea what the inside temperature was, but the PVC got so hot that the center beam sagged down until it touched the ground.

-stevehop kins

[B.Scott]

Hey Bekko,
After I coined the term "pond-pig" about 10 years back, it's nice to see a real one like in your avatar!
Good picture Dude

B.Scott

[bekko]

where you been B.Scott?

[B.Scott]

Been a bit under the weather the last three months Steve. Getting a bit better now. Thanks


B.Scott