Remaining fexible

[kingkong]

It just dawned on me. It is about time for me to do something stupid . I just spent on some pressure treated pine to build a bridge over ....yes my entire koi pond. Has any one ever had toxic results from such an endeavor, please?

[Ruth Rice]

Our pond is capped off with PT pine. The would surrounds the edges so it is not as bad as going accross the pond but it does overhang about 2inches all the way around. It is also sealed with a transparent stain. PT would is treated with different chemicals now but arsenic used as one of the main chemicals. We had our water tested some time ago and the measurable level was is the billionths. (higher levels can naturally occur)
I think if I were to build again we would probably lay the wood out and hose it off well and let it dry in the sun before using it.

[kingkong]

Very good Ruth, thanks for that. Of all the fish calamities, I do not recall a loss due to PT. I will seal this wood as well, good idea.

[bekko]

We built a pressure-treated douglas fir walkway over our little ponds. When the project was started, they were still selling CCA treated lumber (copper chromated arsenic). About half way through, they switched to borate-treated lumber. We did not use a sealer or paint. All ponds had fish in them while construction was going on and there was never any sign of a problem. I am curious to see which section rots and falls down first.

-steveho

[MikeM]

Since I raise bromeliads, which are very sensitive to copper and other metals used in pressure treating lumber, I have become very leery of PT wood. As a result, when the shade structure was built over my pond I used western cedar, a rot-resistant wood. (Not rot-proof by any means!) The uprights, since placed in the ground in concrete, would be in regular contact with moist soil and irrigation spray, so those had heavy coats of water sealant applied. This will retard, but not prevent, eventual rot setting in. The wood "roof" pieces crossing the pond had no form of treatment. I did not want anything over the pond that might leach any adverse substance. I believe I am overly cautious, and perhaps a bit foolish since I've consciously had a structure built that will need to be replaced when rot occurs. That may not be for 7+ years, or it may begin to rot in just a few years. In Florida wood does not last as long as it does in more temperate climes. But I'd rather replace it in the future than have a chemical poisoning issue along the way. Like I said, I'm probably overly cautious. But, I'll do the same when the time comes to replace it.

[kingkong]

Thanks all...The lumber label says do not burn treated wood. Do not use in contact with aluminum. Ground contact ACQ type D and limited lifetime warranty. The way my eyes are burning, I think my life is limited. Shirley this can't be serious... Yamabuki Matsuba GINRIN

UNIT

[bekko]

Ground contact - you got the good stuff! Probably has 0.4 pounds per cubic foot of treatment chemical. ACQ is ammonia and copper. ACQ and borate (Hi-Bor) are the environmentally sensitive CCA replacements.

-stevehopk

[B.Scott]

All I know is the stuff I had covering my filter bays had the fish flashing for years before I found out what it was and changed the wood! The stuff I have now is Red Cedar

B.Scott

[kingkong]

OK, that does it. My lip and eyes are still burning. I am going to use a composite Fiberon or Trex. A polyethylene and wood product that is un-treated and absorbes no water and is 100% non-toxic. Thanks for the warnings people, you saved me a big mistake.

[mitten]

But King Kong, it is usual practice to use a pressure treated structure and then Trex boards for the walk surfaces. I'd say rinse and dry, rinse and dry, then use for your structure. Trex gets hot!

Particle mask and gloves, maybe?

Mickey the wiindowman