Filter Design

[Moneypit]

Koiczar,

I might take you up on that offer when I get ready to get one, Thanks


B.Scott

I think I will plan on a flow of about 5000gph and see what happens, the 200gal settling chamber will have a micro screen in it for added filteration.

[dcny]

Stacey,

What will your stocking density be? Is this a new pond with smaller fish? If you're stocking density isn't too great, perhaps you can temporarily use one of your two moving bed filters into a static mechanical filter. It's not a great solution but it should improve your overall mechanical filtration. Ideally you could have all you mechanical proceed your bio filtration but in this case every little bit helps. The slower flow rate is also a very good idea.

At 6-7 cu. ft, you have approximately 50% of your 100 gal chamber filled. As the fish grow and your bio filtration needs increase, you could move some of your media from the static chamber to the moving bed chamber. You could probably go up to 9 cu. ft. in a 100 gal chamber (roughly 66% full) and still having it operating very efficiently assuming that your air pump is fine.

About the bead filter choice, the Ultima isn't a true bead filter. If you're intention is to install a bead filter for fines management, then you should probably go with a true bead filter like the SacKoi Advantage or the GCTek Aquabead. Both of these systems use actual beads. Aqua Ultima and some other pressurized filters such as the WLim BioWave use BioFlow or K1 like media. They have a combo bio/mechanical filtration function, which in my opinion, doesn't make them the most effective choice for either.

-Dan

[koiczar]

Stacey

Been using the Ultima 20000 on my main 10000gal pond now for 4years. My intended use was strictly mechanical. I converted a swimming pool with a bottom drain and 2 in-wall skimmers. It's powered by a Lim Dragon 1/3hp pump. I must say, it does a great job! I also get quite a bit of bio out of it also. This helps support my main (separate) bio system. To date, I have 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 10-15ppm Nitrate, kh is around 150, GH around 300 (Iknow, too high), and Ph at 7.8. I currently have 35 fish ranging in size from 12" to 28" and I just grew two jumbo tosai from 12" to 19" and 22" this past season.

DCNY

While "technically" you are correct, it's not a "bead filter" because it doesn't use "beads", they are in theory, the same animal. They just took the mechanical high pressure filter and improved it by adding a much improved media that also handles biological filtration as well. This media won't clump together, therefore, you can use lower hp pumps to backwash the system, which I do once to twice a week. The only thing I have found on a true bead filter is as I stated above, the bio film attaches to the beads and causes them to stick together. They clump which causes channeling in the filter body and then you nearly need a 2" x 4" to break them apart, thus the reason why they come with blowers. IMHO if you need a blower to clean your filter, you bought the wrong one!!

[Moneypit]

Dan,


I will be moving 4 Koi 14"-18" to the new pond once compleated, the new pond will be about 5000gal with filter volume, as for using one as a static filter that might be an option, I do have 18cu.ft of media so adding more to one of the 100gal tanks would not be a problem.



Kioczar,



I will probably wait and see how this filter setup will work first before trying a bead filter.

[koiczar]

Stacey

That's a good idea. Your intended starting fish load should be just fine. Those size fish will help get your bio up and running. I just heard that MicrobeLift has a new strain of bacteria on the market. It's in a gel form which is suppose to help it stick to the media thus enhance the start up of a new system. Their products are very good, I've been using them for years. It might be worth a try. It certainly can't hurt, right?!