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Old 05-24-2006   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks Steve,

Appreciate your help in putting this together. I really like the skimmer addition. The only reason I have this rectangular configuration is that I'm building a do-it-yourself filtration with two heavy duty ready-made storage containers.

I was able to find these storage units that already have built-in slide partitions for the Matala mattes (isn't Japan great!). The hardest part that I will face is cutting a clean hole through the containers and get a good seal on the pipe penetrations. Any recommendations or details for plastic pipe penetrations? That along with working with the metric pipe sizing in Japan will keep me on my toes to complete this small summer project.

Thanks again for your input.

Carl
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Old 05-24-2006   #12 (permalink)
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Hi Carl,

DIY projects are fun. I love DIY projects. I made my own filters as well.

the settlement section works better when is in circular so the water circulate to create a vortex like. debris/solid gradually settle down to the bottom as gravitation force pull it down. maybe you can put 4 small pieces of japanese mats at four corners to made the rectangular shape into somewhat circular or maybe just try it in rectangular shape and see how it performs. if you can get a large Polyurethane barrel drums (50 to 60 gals ones) and use it as a settlement tank. Put some cement on the bottom to create the looks I have in the drawing.

I used the rotozip and cut the holes for the bulkheads to connect the pipes. try to cut the holes as close to the bulkhead size. the bulkhead fittings should provide the water tight without addition sealing but if you can't get the bulkhead fittings and want to use some other plumbing to connect the pipes to the filter, you can use the GE II silicone for sealant. it's water tight. trust me on this. I used it and it works great so far.

have fun and keep us posted on your progress,

Steve


Quote:
Originally Posted by Akai-San
Thanks Steve,

Appreciate your help in putting this together. I really like the skimmer addition. The only reason I have this rectangular configuration is that I'm building a do-it-yourself filtration with two heavy duty ready-made storage containers.

I was able to find these storage units that already have built-in slide partitions for the Matala mattes (isn't Japan great!). The hardest part that I will face is cutting a clean hole through the containers and get a good seal on the pipe penetrations. Any recommendations or details for plastic pipe penetrations? That along with working with the metric pipe sizing in Japan will keep me on my toes to complete this small summer project.

Thanks again for your input.

Carl
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Old 05-25-2006   #13 (permalink)
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Don't use cement to shape the bottom of vortexes, it will leach. Use sand and put a liner over it, or bentonite clay. Use Marine grade silicone safe for fish and aquariums to attach it and seal it in place.
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Old 05-25-2006   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junglegeorge12
Don't use cement to shape the bottom of vortexes, it will leach. Use sand and put a liner over it, or bentonite clay. Use Marine grade silicone safe for fish and aquariums to attach it and seal it in place.
JG

If you use UGL's product called "DryLock" and give it 2 coats it seals the concrete. I make domes for bottom drains using a 20 gal Rubbermaid garbage can lid as a mold and set the concrete in it. I partially bury PVC caps (1") for feet. After it cures for 48 hours I paint this stuff on. Keeps the lime from leaching out. It works very well. I'm sure that it could be applied to concrete in a flat-bottom settling/filter tank as well.

Mike
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Old 05-25-2006   #15 (permalink)
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Yes, good point Mike, I neglected to mention that, there are a variety of products you can do that with.

I think on the "New Pond' thread someone is using a product called Sani tred that will work as well.
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