Curing a newly plastered pond

[RayJordan]

Looking for the proper process to cure a newly plastered pond. The pH is about 8.5 and hardeness is over 300 in our limestone aquifer source water. Do not want to raise the pH any higher. Initial filling of pond with out any acid treatment yeilds a pH of almost 11.0.

Please advise of the best process and amount of muratic acid to add to the pond to cure the new plaster to prevent it from having a significant effect of the pond water after treatment.

[KoiCop]

this from a knowledgeable poster on another forum:

For a new plaster coat, you'll need to add muraic acid to drive PH to approx. 6 and KH to zero for 2-3 weeks to "break in" theplaster.

The first week or so, you'll be adding the acid 2-3 times a day to keep the PH down. After that you'll find the acid lasts a little longer and therefore needing less.

After 2 - 3 weeks, when the PH no longer bounces back after the addition of the acid, do 100% water change and start the cycling process.

Also you must keep the pump running 24/7 during this time for circulate the water.

from Thomas T. of Sugarland, Texas

[Dwight]

Ray , thats almost exactly what I did on both of my plaster ponds as well as a newley plastered hot tub. I have found that size makes a difference. The hot tub cured in two weeks , the smaller pond in about four and the 8,000 gal pond in about six. You'll need to shop around for the least expensive muratyic acid you can find because if you are doing anything of any size you are gonna need dozens of gallons. The best I've found if Lowes so far.
Dwight

[dick benbow]

muratic acid for those not aware of it's characteristics needs to be handled very carefully. It's kinda like fire, it can warm you or burn you by the way you respect it......an alternative to it is vinegar, not as strong but much safer....

[RayJordan]

Thanks for the input I will pass it along to the member with the new pond.

[RayJordan]

Meant to start a new thread

[Steve E]

I have to second Dick's warning about handling muriatic acid. I use it to clean my air stones. I wear a fitted cartridge air purifying respirator using cartridges made for use with acids. I also wear rubber gloves with 12" sleeves and a clear full-face mask plus goggles. Over kill by some but this stuff is dangerous to work with. I would not pour the muriatic acid into the pond from more than about 4" above the water surface to avoid splashing. Just be careful, the vapors from this stuff can damage your lungs. I have read information from others that suggest the use of phosporic acid instead of muriatic. But have not had any experience with it.

Steve

[Dwight]

Muratic acid is dilute hydrochloric acid , either 1/3 or 1/4. Phosphoric is very weak compared to hydrochloric and is much less effective against calcium which is what we're fighting. The muratic acid does need to be handled with caution for sure but nothing else can compare for curing plaster. It will also dissolve the dust associated with plastering if you brush the pond walls and keep the pH below 4.5 for a couple of days. When I've done mine I try to keep the pH at about 5.0 for the whole time .

A full on resperator is probably overkill outside but a mask and gloves are a good idea. I've worked with hydrochloric and muratic my entire adult life and never had a problem but I've always been slightly afraid of the stuff.

[koiczar]

Quote: Originally Posted by jdfloyd45 Muratic acid is dilute hydrochloric acid , either 1/3 or 1/4. Phosphoric is very weak compared to hydrochloric and is much less effective against calcium which is what we're fighting. The muratic acid does need to be handled with caution for sure but nothing else can compare for curing plaster. It will also dissolve the dust associated with plastering if you brush the pond walls and keep the pH below 4.5 for a couple of days. When I've done mine I try to keep the pH at about 5.0 for the whole time . A full on resperator is probably overkill outside but a mask and gloves are a good idea. I've worked with hydrochloric and muratic my entire adult life and never had a problem but I've always been slightly afraid of the stuff.

Sounds more like RESPECT to me!!LOL

Mike

[bekko]

You guys are a lot more patient than me. I would slop some Thompson Water Seal on the concrete, let it dry, fill and leach it for a day or so, then drain and refill. The water seal will not last for a year, but it will go away very slowly and there will not be a pH swing or toxicity.

Exposed concrete is never completely cured. Acids produced by nitrification and organic decay will slowly dissolve the concrete forever. What we call "cured" concrete is just a surface which is dissolving much more slowly than it was initially.

-st ev eh