Unchilling the waterfall

[dizzyfish]

I've been concerned since Dick and others have mentioned the chilling effect of a waterfall. So anyway I needed to leave everything running to protect my plumbing pipes and stream bed from freezing. I hope this does the trick.
Mitch

[PapaBear]

We did much the same (coupled with a stock tank heater in the filter) with good results. Went through a good ice storm with temperature in the low teens for the better part of a full week with zero ice formation anywhere on the pond.

[Steve E]

What a simple solution to the problem of "supercooling" water as it tumbles down a waterfall. Especially for those of us in more temperate winter climates. With a good air pump and diffusers or air stones not much worry about keeping the water oxygen levels up. I realize that this will not work for everyone, but for sure it will for me. Also means I can keep the bio filter material in the waterfall sump in contact with fresh water much easier than by creating some Rube Goldberg contraption to take water out of the sump and put it into the pond with out subjecting it to cold air temps. Thank you for taking the time to show us what you came up with simply.

Did you consider some sort of a frame work to keep the tarp from collapsing? Does anyone think that would be necessary. How about those who live in areas of hard winters with temperatures that cause your ponds to ice over for the winter?

Steve

[dizzyfish]

Steve,
I think a frame would be ideal, but unless it comes a big rain or snow I think the water will run under this just fine. If it got a lot of water on top it might force some of the water running below the tarp out of the stream bed. Rain or snow it shouldn't be too big a deal to get out there and shake it off and start over.
Mitch

[Steve E]

That was kinda along the lines I was thinking. It was more of a thought and frames can bring their own set of problems. Each cross piece would create a "dam" and collection point so I guess if I were to use some sort of a frame the pieces would just run down the slope and not across it. Either way the idea seems like a great and simple solution to a concern about winter cooling effects on a moving and splashing body of water.

Steve

[Russell Peters]

How about building a greenhouse over the whole pond and waterfall.

[B.Scott]

I think the problem with cooling in the winter needs to take into account the fact that things like waterfalls and TTs vastly increase the surface area and facilitate heat transfer. The trouble with a water fall is simply that in creates a larger area to lose pond heat. This is true even when it is not freezing.

B.Scott

[MCA]

why not just bypass the waterfall when it is cold? Put a 3 way Jandy valve or some ball valves and uniions that let you send water to:
waterfall only
waterfall plus bypass
bypass only

When winter starts, use only the bypass and drain the water from the waterfall circuit by opening a pipe union (or valve).

Our bypass is ~6" below pond's normal pool level. It is located just below waterfall.


BTW....nice looking pond!

[dizzyfish]

Quote: Originally Posted by MCA why not just bypass the waterfall when it is cold? Put a 3 way Jandy valve or some ball valves and uniions that let you send water to: waterfall only waterfall plus bypass bypass only When winter starts, use only the bypass and drain the water from the waterfall circuit by opening a pipe union (or valve). Our bypass is ~6" below pond's normal pool level. It is located just below waterfall.

The biggest problem I have is that my plumbing was not done in a way that allows for easy draining of the pipes. It is certainly an option I might consider redoing, but I generally enjoy the waterfall even in the cooler months, if it doesn't get real cold. Also a lot of robins and other birds and wildlife drink from the waterfall. And in order to protect the liner and to shape the pattern of the falls I poured concrete on top of the liner. I sealed the concrete, but wouldn't be surprised if water seeps down through the concrete to the liner in places. The way I built it even if the concrete sealer fails the water is still contained by the liner below. (It doesn't leak) However I have five levels of falls and about a 25' length of streambeds from the beginning of the falls until it empties into the pond. When the water is shut off a series of shallow pools remain above the individual falls. I'm concerned that if those pools freeze, and the concrete below freezes it might crack. So anyway I have no desire to re-poor the concrete in the stream beds every year. So for me covering it and leaving it running seems like a decent option. And if cools a tiny bit by keeping a very small section open for the wildlife to drink, it's a price I'm willing to pay.
Mitch

[moikoi]

Quote: Originally Posted by B.Scott I think the problem with cooling in the winter needs to take into account the fact that things like waterfalls and TTs vastly increase the surface area and facilitate heat transfer. The trouble with a water fall is simply that in creates a larger area to lose pond heat. This is true even when it is not freezing. B.Scott

what if the outside temp is warmer than the pond temp? wouldn't the waterfall help warm up the pond temp.