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Old 05-15-2007   #11 (permalink)
Tosai
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasPR View Post
I agree with Carl. the numbers do not seem to read right or add up to the symptoms you are seeing ( death rate and behavior) . A pH crash will have all fish hanging at the surface.
My advise is to MONITOR your pH as with green water, your pH should go thru the roof as carbon dioxide and oygen levels get pulled up and down. Test pH in the AM, Mid-day and the PM. How are you able to confirm ammonia in green water? Are you using a meter? And get the fish scaped again for parasites. It's very important as parasites AND green water, usually lead to aeromonas infections. JR

I AM USING A TEST STRIP MADE BY JUNGLE--FOR AMMONIA YOU PUT WATER IN A VIAL THEN PUT THE STRIP IN AND SHAKE FOR 30 SECONDS. WHAT ARE AEROMNONAS INFECTIONS? I LOOKED AT ALL THE FISH CLOSELY AFTER THEY DIED AND DID NOT SEE ANY SORES OR RED GILLS. I DID NOTICE A COUPLE--EVEN THE ONES THAT ARE STILL ALIVE HAVE RAGGED LOOKING FINS. ALSO WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE IN "GOOD" BACTERIA VS. "BAD" BACTERIA? SHOULD I BE CLEANING MY FILTER MEDIA WHEN I CLEANING THE FILTER PADS? IF SO, IS THERE A CERTAIN WAY TO DO SO? THANKS!
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Old 05-15-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Disregard the last photo. I uploaded it by mistake and can't figure out how to delete it.

How old is your test kit and is it outside in the heat? I agree, the numbers can't be right.

Do you have well water?
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Old 05-15-2007   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kntry View Post
Disregard the last photo. I uploaded it by mistake and can't figure out how to delete it.

How old is your test kit and is it outside in the heat? I agree, the numbers can't be right.

Do you have well water?

JUST BOUGHT IT 2 DAYS AGO BECAUSE OF MY PROBLEMS--IT IS NOT IN THE HEAT--AND NOT OUTDATED. WHEN YA'LL (YES I SAID YA'LL--REDNECK COUNTRY) SAY THE NUMBERS CAN'T BE RIGHT WHAT ARE YOU REFERING TO SPECIFICALLY. I AM CONFUSED, MAYBE I AM READING IT WRONG, BUT I READ THE DIRECTIONS THOROUGHLY AND FOLLOWED TO A T.
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Old 05-15-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Aeration is always good and I think increasing it is a good idea, but you have to be able to evaluate your water. You will need to get a proper test kit, but for now, buy new test strips. Check your pond water, and then set aside a cup of tap water to determine the parameters of your source water. You should check that cup of tap water once tonight and once tomorrow. The reason we are testing your tap water is because the safest way to correct water is by doing water changes, so you have to know the parameters of your source water to determine if that is a viable option and how we may expect it to change your water.

Once you verify the water parameters, those on the site with more experience than I can guide you thru the next steps, but they must have accurate numbers. It is possible that the numbers you gave them are correct, but they need to know for sure.
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Old 05-15-2007   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kelliewindham View Post
JUST BOUGHT IT 2 DAYS AGO BECAUSE OF MY PROBLEMS--IT IS NOT IN THE HEAT--AND NOT OUTDATED. WHEN YA'LL (YES I SAID YA'LL--REDNECK COUNTRY) SAY THE NUMBERS CAN'T BE RIGHT WHAT ARE YOU REFERING TO SPECIFICALLY. I AM CONFUSED, MAYBE I AM READING IT WRONG, BUT I READ THE DIRECTIONS THOROUGHLY AND FOLLOWED TO A T.
Kellie

The strips can still b expired even if you just bought them if they were sitting on the shelf, or they may have gotten exposed to humidity. Did you check the expiration date on the container?

Edit: Also, how are you testing kh and the other parameters?
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Old 05-15-2007   #16 (permalink)
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Kellie

The strips can still b expired even if you just bought them if they were sitting on the shelf, or they may have gotten exposed to humidity. Did you check the expiration date on the container?

Edit: Also, how are you testing kh and the other parameters?
I BOUGHT 2 SEPERATE KITS--ONE FOR AMMONIA AND ONE THAT IS 5 IN 1--BOTH SETS EXPIRE 10/2008.
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Old 05-15-2007   #17 (permalink)
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I BOUGHT 2 SEPERATE KITS--ONE FOR AMMONIA AND ONE THAT IS 5 IN 1--BOTH SETS EXPIRE 10/2008.
Between my pool and my pond an aquariums, my test strips have proven defective on several occasions, but let's do an experiment. Test your tap water right now and tell us the results.
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Old 05-15-2007   #18 (permalink)
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Between my pool and my pond an aquariums, my test strips have proven defective on several occasions, but let's do an experiment. Test your tap water right now and tell us the results.

NITRATE-20
NITRITE-0
GH-75
KH-40
PH-6.2

DOES THIS SOUND RIGHT? GIVE ME SEC TO CHECK AMMONIA.
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Old 05-15-2007   #19 (permalink)
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As part of this detective mystery, let's look at the control pond, your other pond that is having no problems. What does its pH and alkaline reserve read?
What is the pH and hardness from the tap? JR

Ooppss I see the response above now-

Interesting, your KH has slipped in the new pond but your pH is rock solid at 6.2? I'm back to recommendation of testing pH morning, noon and night to understand the effect algae is having in things.
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Old 05-15-2007   #20 (permalink)
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I have to run, but I will recap for you:

1. Increase circulation and areation

2. Verify water parameters of pond and source water.

3. If source water is okay, do another water change,. If your kh really was zero, add baking soda as directed. If it is not, make any other necessary adjustments.

4. Do a scrape and scope to determine the presence of parasites.

5. If you can't scrape and scope, or get someone to do that for you, you may need to do a shotgun treatment. Someone should be able to help you with that if that becomes necessary.

6. Depending on the condition of your koi, you may have to treat them with an antibiotic. There are several ways to do that, injections are preferable, but I think dips are more practical for most people. Again, at the appropriate time, someone will help you with that.

7. If there are open sores on any of the fish, you may have to treat them, as well.

Take it step by step, and straighten out the water first.

Good luck!
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