Koi Are Dying!!! Please Help!!

[kelliewindham]

HI EVERYONE! I AM NEW TO THE KOI HOBBY AND AM AT A TOTAL LOSS. MY ORIGINAL POND WAS RUNNING SMOOTHLY, NO APPARENT DISEASES, FISH LOSS, ALL FISH SEEMED HAPPY (3 SMALL KOI, AND A COUPLE COMETS). HOWEVER THE FIRST POND ONLY TEASED ME AS THE LONGER I HAD IT THE MORE I WAS WANTING SOMETHING BIGGER. KOI BUG BIT ME HARD ! SO.. IN MARCH I BEGIN DIGGING A BIGGER POND. 16L X 6W X 4D. I TREATED MY NEW POND WITH POND START (SAME THING I USED ON THE FIRST POND--DECLORINATES, AND AGES THE WATER) UPON FILLING WITH WATER, CYCLED MY WATER FOR 2-3 WEEKS, AND SLOWLY ADDED MY FISH 1-2 AT A TIME--ALL KOI--(4) 10-12 IN AND (4) 3-6 IN . PRETTY SOON MY WATER STARTED TURNING GREEN--DID SEVERAL 20 % WATER CHANGES THAT ONLY HELPED VERY LITTLE. MY POND DOES CATCH A LOT OF SUNLIGHT AS MY WATER PLANTS HAVEN'T CAUGHT UP YET TO PROVIDE LOTS OF SHADE. BUT THAT'S NOT THE WORST! 3-4 DAYS AGO I NOTICED ONE OF MY LARGER KOI ACTING LIKE IT WAS NOT FEELING WELL. JUST KIND OF LETHARGIC, NOT MUCH APPETITE, MAYBE SOME FLASHING BUT COULDN'T BE SURE BECAUSE OF THE WATER CLARITY. DID 20% WATER CHANGE. NEXT MORNING HE WAS DEAD. SAME THING BEGAN HAPPENING WITH ALL MY FISH-LARGE AND SMALL) ONE OR TWO AT A TIME. IN THE LAST 3 DAYS I HAVE LOST 4 FISH---ALWAYS THEY DIE AT NIGHT. I COME OUT IN THE MORNING AROUND 8 AM TO CHECK ON THEM AND ONE OR TWO ARE DEAD. AND THEY DONT USUALLY FLOAT ON THE SURFACE AFTER THEY DIE. I USUALLY HAVE TO LOOK HARD TO FIND THEM ON THE BOTTOM. CHECKED MY WATER LEVELS BUT NOT SURE WHAT I NEED TO DO.
NITRATE-0
NITRITE-0
GH-50
KH-0
PH-6.2
AMON-0

THESE HAVE REMAINED CONSTANT FOR 2 DAYS--CHECKED IN MORNING AND AFTERNOON BOTH DAYS.

SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE OUT WHAT I AM DOING WRONG BEFORE ALL MY FISH DIE OR MY HUSBAND KILLS ME FOR LETTING THEM DIE .

TODAY I MOVED ALL MY FISH INTO MY ORIGINAL POND UNTIL I CAN FIGURE OUT WHAT IS GOING ON, BUT I CANNOT LEAVE THEM THERE VERY LONG AS IT IS ONLY 200 GALLONS.

ALSO, I LIVE IN CENTRAL LOUISIANA WITH TEMPS ALREADY CLOSE TO 90. THOUGHT THEY MAY BE GETTING TO HOT, BUT MY GOLDFISH IN THE FIRST POND HAVE BEEN HAPPY AND HEALTHY.


SORRY SUCH A LONG POST BUT I AM COMPLETELY LOST AND SO UPSET BY MY FISH BEING NOT WELL.

THANKS ALL!!!

[jnorth]

With a gh of 50 and a kh of 0 your ph is going to swing wildly. 6.2 is too low. Best I can tell you is to add some baking soda to stabilize it. Check here for more info of this.

KoiVet Message Boards - Getting The Perfect pH

Oh and welcome to Bito. Sorry you are having problems

[Russell Peters]

I agree with Jim, but if you don't have an air pump, get one and add some air stones to the pond. Lack of oxygen, with the temperature being so hot, could be playing a big role in all of this.

Russ

[kelliewindham]

I Have 3 Biological And Mechanical Filters Running With Water Pumps In Each. I Don't Know The Exact Make/brand/ Etc. But They Are All The Type That The Water Pump Fits Into The Fitler Box With The Biological Media Balls. One Pump Runs A Fountain, And The Other Two Run Small Waterfalls. Do I Still Need An Airpump Or Stone? If So What Kind And Where Do I Get It? Thanks!

[Russell Peters]

Quote: Originally Posted by kelliewindham I Have 3 Biological And Mechanical Filters Running With Water Pumps In Each. I Don't Know The Exact Make/brand/ Etc. But They Are All The Type That The Water Pump Fits Into The Fitler Box With The Biological Media Balls. One Pump Runs A Fountain, And The Other Two Run Small Waterfalls. Do I Still Need An Airpump Or Stone? If So What Kind And Where Do I Get It? Thanks!

Yes, you still need an air pump with airstones. Alita and Hakko air pumps are two that come to mind. Do you have a local Koi dealer? If not, then try an online Koi dealer.

[MikeM]

The fact that they are dying overnight points to oxygen deprivation as a result of the green water (algae) consuming oxygen at night. You mention high temperatures, but do not expressly say what the water temperature is. If the water is 90F, you have a real problem. The worst is still to come! Water temps over 80F, plus heavy green water necessitate aeration. Fluctuating pH due to low KH may be playing a role in stressing the fish.

Dealing with the green water is a challenge. First, if you use one the algicide products there will be a great drop in oxygen content that will kill fish. Second, if you use UV to control the algae, be prepared for ammonia/nitrite problems. It takes 6-8 weeks for the biological filter to cycle. The greenwater algae are consuming the ammonia. As a result, when the algae are eliminated by UV, there might not be a sufficient population of nitrifiers for the number of fish for a few weeks.

Question: How frequently does your filter turnover the volume of the pond? I recommend once per hour. The conventional wisdom is once per two hours.

The greenwater will clear "on its own" (or at least become much more mild) when the filamentous algae get established on the pond walls and the filters truly mature. Meanwhile, add oyster shell (crushed oyster shell is sold as chicken grit) to raise KH and add extra aeration.

Good luck!!

[cppond]

Kellie

You also need to verify that your test kit, or test strips are not defective or expired. The numbers don't sound right. What are you using to test the water? Also, verify the parameters of your tap water so we can determine how your tap water may effect your pond water when you do changes.

[mstrseed]

If I were you I would beat feet to Wally World and buy the biggest air pump they had. It will be small but should aid for now. Cost about $25 including a few stomes and tubing.

[JasPR]

I agree with Carl. the numbers do not seem to read right or add up to the symptoms you are seeing ( death rate and behavior) . A pH crash will have all fish hanging at the surface.
My advise is to MONITOR your pH as with green water, your pH should go thru the roof as carbon dioxide and oygen levels get pulled up and down. Test pH in the AM, Mid-day and the PM. How are you able to confirm ammonia in green water? Are you using a meter? And get the fish scaped again for parasites. It's very important as parasites AND green water, usually lead to aeromonas infections. JR

[kntry]

Kellie, you're getting great advice so I can't really add much.

I'm in South Louisiana so I know what you're talking about with the temps in the 90's. The water temp shouldn't be that high.

If the sides of your pond are straight, you have about 2800 gallons. I don't know what kind of filter/pump set up you have but it doesn't sound sufficient for that amount of water.

Someone already said it sounds like oxygen deprivation. The algae uses up all the oxygen at night so the fish die of suffocation.

Here's the fastest, cheapest and easiest thing to do to get them more oxygen. You're going to make a spray bar. You're going to need a submersible pump that you can get at Lowe's or HD and a piece of 1/2" tubing.

Go to Lowe's or HD and get a piece of 2" pvc, a 2" pvc cap, a 1/2" nipple (it's gray and screws on one end with a beveled, graduated end on the other side to slide hose tubing over) and a pvc reducer from 2" slip to 1/2" female thread.

Put the cap on one. On the other end, slide the reducing fitting onto the pipe, screw the nipple in and put the tubing over the fitting. Drill 3/16" holes 4" apart along a straight line on the 2" pipe. Hook the pump to the tubing and position the spray bar on the side of the pond, pointing the holes at about a 45 degree angle to the surface water so you get the most splash.

I've attached some pics. If this doesn't make sense, pm me and I'll give you my phone number. I can also go take pics of the fittings if you need them. I think I have some laying around.

If there's any way you can make a TT, that will help, too.

You need to get more biological filtration going once you get them past the crisis.