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Old 06-08-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJordan View Post
Several factors that are very important but difficult to calculate from a set formula.

#1 - It is critical to not feed more than your filter system can process without adversely affecting water quality.. Maintaining low levels of DOC's(surface foam), Nitrates, and near saturation levels of dissolved oxygen are a must for koi to reach their potential.

#2 - It is critical that koi not ruin their body shape and get too fat.

#3 - If grown too fast some koi can lose their color and pattern.

Also koi are individuals and will eat, grow, develop, put on fat, etc. differently. Some with be behind and some will be ahead of the rest no matter what you do.

Of your 20 koi pick out the two or three of the best and focus on feeding your pond to maximize their potential.
Very well explained here is what the Master said ; and I take everything as gospel
`R EPRINT FROM RINKO MAGAZINE MARCH 1999 ISSUE
Teachings from TOSHIO SAKAI
ANNUAL CYCLE OF KOI
Over the many years that I’ve been raising Koi I’ve observed a consistent one year cycle for Koi .Female Koi during May and June direct all the nutrition they extract from their food toward producing eggs needed .to reproduce their species. During this period water temperature is moderate ,and not high and if the food amount is increased the Koi gains more flesh and weight around its stomach .It almost looks as if its body structure has increased . In reality , all the nutrition is directed to the female Koi’s eggs and the foundation of the Koi’s body strength is not developed .
However, after the spawning period ,by July if she has not spawned , the eggs become white empty eggs . If the timing of spawning shifts to a later date ,the fertilization rate drops in direct relation to the time delay . For instance ,late in the summer after the spawning period , no matter how many eggs are produced the fertilization of eggs is low .This is due to the instinctive way the Koi body works as it now directs nutrition away from reproduction and towards building up its own body. For this reason body structure develops after the spawning period and developing its basic body strength depends on how much you can feed the Koi during the 3 month period , July through September .
As the body grows ,the color usually becomes temporarily lighter .However, it is more critical to create basic body strength at this time and once the body is developed ,skin luster can develop later . In Niigata ,during July through October ,the Koi are fed as much as they can eat for maximum growth and the luster is enhanced as the Koi develops past this growth period .
By continues feeding during the summer , the Koi can develop and gain its conformation ,beauty and elegance , which you observe by the way the Koi swims .There are some regional differences in temperature ,but from about mid September ,the morning and evening temperature drops and the water temperature falls as well .About this time of the season , the Beni starts to gain in redness that may have lightened during the growing summer season .
From winter to early spring even if you feed Koi [ females] well you can not make them much bigger ,only fatter .If in the winter you raise large size Koi in warm temperatures even if you ,thereafter , put them in a mud pond in the spring ,their overall growth by autumn is not very much improved .
You must teach your Koi [females] about the laws of nature ….that winter is cold and harsh. If your Koi learns this it will eat and accumulate nutrition during summer through autumn and will develop its body during that period of time .
An animal that goes through hibernation increases its food consumption and accumulates its nutrition during the summer for the winter according to its natural survival instincts that drive it to preserve the necessary energy for its hibernating season .
Large sized Koi need to experience the winter season properly . Water temperature is an important element for cold –blooded animals .It is natural for Koi to sleep during the winter and ,therefore ,going against nature and raising Koi in a warm place during winter is not good .
If Koi are over protected and have a warm ,easy winter ,their condition after autumn mud pond harvest period is not as desirable . If you compare Koi which had warm easy winter and Koi that had a cold winter you will see a definite difference in body development .
Females especially should be kept below feeding temperatures [below 47degrees F] to be in their best growing and or breeding condition . However ,I am not suggesting that you keep these females in 32degrees F water for two or 3 months .
Also make sure the water condition does not deteriorate over the winter hibernation period. In terms of Tousai [one year olds],the treatment should be very different . Since they will have no eggs ,you can see more potential by raising the water temperature and by making the body size larger more quickly . You will thereby be able to see good quality one-year Koi further develop their beauty .
However ,it is important that the temperature is gradually lowered when these Koi are placed in the mud ponds in the spring as in all movement of Koi from one pond to another .
[Article translated from it’s original Japanese]
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Old 06-08-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Much knowledge and experience in Sakai's words. Likewise for those of Oomo. I think it important to keep in mind the context in which these matters are discussed. Oomo should not be viewed as suggesting the rate of feed in a cold winter season. Sakai's words should not be applied literally to warm climate koikeeping. His experience was not with koikeeping in Malaysia or Indonesia. The challenge is to adapt his expertise and insight to other circumstances.
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Old 06-08-2007   #13 (permalink)
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Thank you, Eugene. Very informative article indeed. Still climbing my steep learning curve
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Old 06-09-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Erns, no point for me to post photos of my pond now since my pond renovation is starting on 18th June. Will certainly post in a couple of months time when things stabilize. I must say tho that I'm not the DIY type and I leave things totally to my dealer who does all my renovations for me (this will be the THIRD renovation in 18months!). I'm a financial person and have little expertise in pond matters. I'll have to check with him as to the power of all the various pumps etc, as I have absolutely no freaking idea!! I manage by exception, so all I know is that my current system works.

A big pond doesn't necessarily mean a nice looking pond! My pond isn't much to look at at all. 2 feet high walls around to prevent fish from jumping out, and no rocks at all. I'm paranoid about rocks, even if they're above the water surface, as fish may jump out and injure themselves. Damage to hi on the head is often irrepairable. I tend to buy relatively expensive fish, so i cannot afford to take any chances.

Btw, I also just ordered a 7' tall protein skimmer from Germany. I'm told it will ease a lot of load on my filter given that I am gonna increase my feed rate substantially. Really expensive, unfortunately...I have to work a lot harder.
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Old 06-12-2007   #15 (permalink)
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There are differring thoughts on this subject and also it depends on the objective.
Kentaro Sakai says that we shud feed 0.5 percent of koi's weight divided over six feedings. 1% if we want to bulk up the koi for competition.

Just 2 weeks ago, Daisuke MAeda told us to be careful when feeding larger kois and to feed only twice a day because larger kois have slower metabolism rate. Overfeeding larger kois will damage thir digestive system and caused them to develop the sinking disease. Smaller kois are fed up to 5 , 6 times a day. Forgot how much feed he recommended.

I am feeding my 12 kois 300 grams a day morning and evening. My pond has not matured enuf yet to take anymore biological load. I am rigging up a DIY foam fractioner soon to improve DOC levels. then maybe feed to 400 grams.
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