What do you guys recommend to use as a buffer, or not use?

[kyari]

Now that I have seen, many thanks to JR, that my tap pH is excellent at a 7.6 when aerated, my natural KH is 80. I have some oyster shell, I know it dissolves quickly and JR reminded me of that. Do you recommend I buffer up from the 80 or leave it alone. If so, what is your choice buffer, the oyster shell, the pH pill the Koivet uses, I know that dissolves in about 1 month too, or something more permanent like drop in some limestone. Everything I read, in books, mind you, which the book way I am finding is not right for every pond. See, I am learning! The books say 120, or 180 is ideal to protect the pH from a crash.
Is my natural 80 on KH, OK? with my oyster shell in now, it is 120 it was 180, but the oyster shell is starting to dissolve as it has dropped to 120.
Just wondering if you guys recommend to keep buffering up from my 80 KH natural to the 120-180 range or is 80 sufficient, from your experience? If I should still buffer up, what is your buffer of choice, as you guys have been around the block alot and know what works well.
Thanks, as always,
Carrie

[Drew A.]

Personally, I would continue to buffer the water. If you can maintain a KH in the range of 120 to 150ppm you're doing good.

Oyster shell is just fine, although precision isn't its strong point. If precision is your only goal you could always dose Kalk with a Kalk reactor (just a thought).

Drew

[MikeM]

As JR indicated in the other thread, your KH is OK, but low enough that you should be a bit more attentive to water changes etc. The oyster shell will provide an extra margin and will cause no harm.

[moikoi]

i finally stop adding 9 lbs of BS per week after W/C, haven't add any BS in the pass 2.5 months. i just let the KH sit at 90 ppm ever since. save myself $4.00 per week in baking soda.

[PapaBear]

Speaking for myself, I've grown very fond of Lithaqua as a slow release ph buffer that serves the dual purpose of being an exellent host for biofilm. Having said that, any good source of CaCO3 will give you the same potential benefit, such as coarse Coral or Oyster shell. The water and bacteria will both consume them slowly as needed, but the long term benefits to your filtration and water conditioning are worth it IMHO. If you are doing regular water changes 80 should be a comfortable minimum (unless you are running a bead filter) so long as you have some source of long term buffering in the system, and baking soda on hand for emergencies, like right after a heavy rain.

[KoiCop]

If you're not overstocked (which you shouldn't be) and if you're changing 10% or more of your water every week (which you should be), then your KH level (80) will work just fine. Why? Because the weekly addition of new water will replace the buffering that has been used up by the nitrogen cycle. It's the same principle as frequently gassing up your car: You'll never get close to empty.

Try it -- but test to be sure. Then you'll know what's happening.

Not only will you save time and money by not having to add stuff, but the fish will be happier without you bouncing the #'s all over the chart.

And since you're new, don't believe that urban myth about bead filters needing a KH level of 200+ to perform effectively. That's a left-over from when Dr. Malone @LSU developed the bead filter for intensive aqua-culture applications (a 'rule' which doesn't apply to the average koi pond).

[carolyn swanson]

I use Lithaqua and am very pleased, but the recommended "dosage" is one bucket per 1,000 gal. I have a largish pond and an actual compartment in my filter extravaganza for coral, Lithaqua, etc., and still it is not big enough to hold the recommended amount. Thus I have bags of it sitting on the bottom of my Nexus.

Also (listen up, Russ), the buckets, while useful when empty, are almost impossible to open.

[moikoi]

Quote: Originally Posted by KoiCop If you're not overstocked (which you shouldn't be) and if you're changing 10% or more of your water every week (which you should be), then your KH level (80) will work just fine. Why? Because the weekly addition of new water will replace the buffering that has been used up by the nitrogen cycle. It's the same principle as frequently gassing up your car: You'll never get close to empty. Try it -- but test to be sure. Then you'll know what's happening. Not only will you save time and money by not having to add stuff, but the fish will be happier without you bouncing the #'s all over the chart. And since you're new, don't believe that urban myth about bead filters needing a KH level of 200+ to perform effectively. That's a left-over from when Dr. Malone @LSU developed the bead filter for intensive aqua-culture applications (a 'rule' which doesn't apply to the average koi pond).

Don
agree with you 101% but you know what is so strange? my tap water KH is only 3 drops,but the pond water KH is 5 drops.

[Russell Peters]

Quote: Originally Posted by carolyn swanson I use Lithaqua and am very pleased, but the recommended "dosage" is one bucket per 1,000 gal. I have a largish pond and an actual compartment in my filter extravaganza for coral, Lithaqua, etc., and still it is not big enough to hold the recommended amount. Thus I have bags of it sitting on the bottom of my Nexus. Also (listen up, Russ), the buckets, while useful when empty, are almost impossible to open.

Sorry, we accidentally ordered the childproof containers.LOL

[carolyn swanson]

Quote: Originally Posted by Russell Peters Sorry, we accidentally ordered the childproof containers.LOL

I think you ordered the adult-proof. Send me the child-proof next time.