Reducing GH with Water Softener

[farne230]

I live in limestone country where our public water system derives its' water from the Edwards Aquifer, very hard (GH 300ppm, dh 16.8 / KH 300ppm, dh 16.8). My pond water chemistry is (GH 175ppm to 230ppm or dH9.8 to dH 12 / KH 107.9ppm or dH 6). I have tategoi gosanke with potential and I want the beni and skiroji to develop to their potential, no shimies or fading hi. What do you recommend. Pond volume is 8,300 gallons, concrete and polyurea lined pond. I do one 1,000 gallon water change per week, turn over rate is approximately every 30min to 40min and I use 200kg of bakki house media on two returns and 9.0 cu-ft bead filter with alpha one media and UV light. I do have small vortex prefilters before the bakki showers. Pond will be heated within a few weeks. Also one bottom drain with air using 80L of air, clean bottom and small water fall (see photo).

I would like to reduce GH with a water softener. DO/RO unit may be too wasteful and costly to reduce KH too. Looking for your recommendations?
Bob

[Beniguy]

Good question. I'll run some tests tonight on my system. I use a carbon filter to remove chlorine and reduce chloramine. I'll get back tomorrow or tonight with what I find.
Ed

[MikeM]

Farne: I think you got your answers on another board. For the benefit of others, it is generally reported that use of a sodium exchange water softener is effective without increasing salinity to unacceptable levels. A small reduction in pH often accompanies the softening. RO is 'better' in some respects, but is more costly, wasteful of water and less convenient in regard to flow rates. Think of RO for re-building water, such as in some reef tank applications. For a koi pond, the volumes of water are such that those who have used both end up prefering the sodium exchange water softener.

[Beniguy]

Well I tested my tap as compared to the water from the charcoal filter,
120 Alkalinity
120 Hardness

Test strips

Not the answer here. But may I ask why change it? The fish will become aclimated to the water conditios, attempting to monitor and maintain a lower level is going to be a bit of work, or expensive (R/O),not my idea of fun.

Anyone else?
Ed

[Auntiesue]

Bob, I have a softener as you know from my posts on another forum. I love mine and the result it has given me.

[koiczar]

Bob

After talking with Sue on another Forum, I too decided to go the water softener route. My GH from the tap is 300 and Kh is 160. The Ph in the pond registered at 8.3 After installing the softener, I tested the water from it and it read Gh 25, Kh 140 and Ph 7.5. So, I mix the softened tap with mains water to achieve 120Gh, Kh 140 and Ph around 8.0. I have noticed that since I installed the softener, the skin/lustre on the fish is much better. Also, my Maruyama kohaku lost the shimi it had developed!

This seems to be the most economical way to achieve your goals, especially in light of possible water shortages in our area here in California.

Mike

[farne230]

I priced out a standard no thrills 48,000 grain softener and carbon tank with 2lbs of activated carbon installed, including piped to a new 3/4" hose Bib for $1324.53. Not too bad. I believe with 1000 gallon weekly water changes, the carbon will last a good while.
Bob

[MCA]

Suggest everyone read Mike Snaden's article on koi pond water in newest Koi Nations.

[mstrseed]

Quote: Originally Posted by MCA Suggest everyone read Mike Snaden's article on koi pond water in newest Koi Nations.

So Mike in a nut shell..................

[RobR]

Two cubic feet of carbon should last a long time. I use only 1 cubic foot and that is not only for my pond but the entire house. I changed mine out after 2 years but I still could not get a total or free chlorine reading out of it. I'm going to let the new carbon go even longer and just keep checking every month.
Just make sure you have a backwash head on it. Mine is set to backwash every three days. Works great.