nitrate levels

[hacnp]

I have never had a reading above 0 for Ammonia or NitrIte, pond has been running for over 4 years now.
No, the shower is not the only bio. 3 curcuits on this pond, skimmer to 155 G. drum with PVC shavings to shower, 2 bottom drains to settlement followed by 155 G. drums with matting and matala. This feeds 2 pumps that combine to feed a 400 G. submerged filter filled with biostrata. In all I have over 4000 sq. ft. of surface area in submerged media of a variety of media types not counting the shower.

Useing AES catalog I estimate over 50 sq. ft. of submerged media surface area per lb. of fish.

[Eugeneg]

Two questions, one is there any thing else I can do to lower the reading? Two, what is typical for others here?[/quote]

Based on what I observed at Momotaro I would say you would need 3 more baki showers to do the job . Look at post 11 may be you could look at adding extra filtration
Regards
Eugene

[moikoi]

Quote: Originally Posted by hacnp Could you describe your filtration and water change routine? I would love to get any improvment I can.

BD > SC > Jmat chamber > Ultima 20K filter > return to pond. 10% water change per week and add 1 cup of koi clay.

[JasPR]

Those are all pretty good suggestions and I'm sure the answer is in there somwhere.

But NitrAte is an end product so circulation is not the problem as nitrAte is being produced too well. If ammonia or nitrite was the problem then circulation would be the first thing.
I would look to your source water and I would also look to the brands of food you are using as they could very well be the source of your chronic nitrate levels .
You get eliminate my two suggestions by simple testing your tap water and by fasting the fish for a week and then switching to Hikari wheatgerm ( or Ogata) for 90-120 days.
As for TTs eliminating nitrate, it is more a wearing down of levels. You're not over stocked and seem to be doing everything correct including the 15 GPH of freshwater so i'd expect your nitrAtes to be in the 5 mg/l range.
Interesting mystery. JR

[jomoma]

I have an upper pond and river i stock with plant and have no nitrate problem accept at the end of fall.

It mite not be an option for you but a tub of plants mite work well as a natural end to your problem. Water lettuce and other options in your pond mite work if your koi don't destroy them.

[KoiCop]

Quote: Originally Posted by jomoma I have an upper pond and river i stock with plant and have no nitrate problem accept at the end of fall. It mite not be an option for you but a tub of plants mite work well as a natural end to your problem. Water lettuce and other options in your pond mite work if your koi don't destroy them.

Please. We're discussing high end koi ponds here, not water gardens.

[moikoi]

Quote: Originally Posted by JasPR Those are all pretty good suggestions and I'm sure the answer is in there somwhere. But NitrAte is an end product so circulation is not the problem as nitrAte is being produced too well. If ammonia or nitrite was the problem then circulation would be the first thing. I would look to your source water and I would also look to the brands of food you are using as they could very well be the source of your chronic nitrate levels . You get eliminate my two suggestions by simple testing your tap water and by fasting the fish for a week and then switching to Hikari wheatgerm ( or Ogata) for 90-120 days. As for TTs eliminating nitrate, it is more a wearing down of levels. You're not over stocked and seem to be doing everything correct including the 15 GPH of freshwater so i'd expect your nitrAtes to be in the 5 mg/l range. Interesting mystery. JR

JR....true or false ?
some say it is impossible to have a 0 nitrAte reading.

[jomoma]

Quote: Originally Posted by KoiCop Please. We're discussing high end koi ponds here, not water gardens.

ya, i know. sorry

[KoiCop]

Quote: Originally Posted by hacnp Thanks for the replys, Getting the organics before decay, thats what I thought daily cleaning would do. Maxed out there. Any other ideas?

To expand on my point of eliminating organics before they're converted &/etc., this from JR:

I don’t think it’s wise to limit one’s vision of prefiltration to physical mechanical filtration. And I don’t think we should limit our view to just sumps and vortexes either. One piece of equipment in this area is the Protein skimmer (foam fractionator). This piece of kit is the ultimate expression of the concept of organic removal as it has the ability to take organic material out of the system BEFORE it is processed into ammonia.
Source: Nishikigoi International: Re: What experience, if any, have you had with 'ozone' coupled within your koi pond?

Best wishes,

[jomoma]

Quote: Originally Posted by KoiCop To expand on my point of eliminating organics before they're converted &/etc., this from JR: I don’t think it’s wise to limit one’s vision of prefiltration to physical mechanical filtration. And I don’t think we should limit our view to just sumps and vortexes either. One piece of equipment in this area is the Protein skimmer (foam fractionator). This piece of kit is the ultimate expression of the concept of organic removal as it has the ability to take organic material out of the system BEFORE it is processed into ammonia. Source: Nishikigoi International: Re: What experience, if any, have you had with 'ozone' coupled within your koi pond? Best wishes,

When i put plants in my upper pond or highline water garden... i have no foam or geasy looking water.

Sorry about talking about natural cyle solutions. I know you guys love the fractionator for your koi swimming pools. I thought i mite need a protien skimmer at first but my upper pond takes out any foam. all i have to do is sell or toss out excess water plants.

It would work. Running your system threw a water garden after the filter. It takes out all the nitrate and protien waste with little cost.