A Question About Sequence Pumps

[Sangreaal]

Is a priming pot/basket strainer absolutely necessary for operation, or can it be used without? Application would be with above-ground tanks, not in-ground pond. Thanks aforehand for any info on using a Sequence.

[kntry]

Marie, if the pump is below water level, you don’t NEED the priming pot but it makes starting the pump easier if you get air in the line. It does strain some trash before going into the impeller. If the pump is above water level, you’ll have to have the pot to get the suction going.

[Bob Winkler]

Sequence makes self priming pumps in the larger sizes (1/3 HP and above). Not sure about 1/4 HP or smaller. 3 of our sequence pumps are above water level, and 2 below. The above water level pumps have a vertically placed one way check valve in line just above water level as close as I could get to that water level in our situation. Whew Im dizzy I would have preferred the check valves below water level. We placed a hose bib in line above the pump to fill with water to the check valve, turned on the pump and volia... we have water flow. The sequence pumps we used above water level are the self priming type, but I think this would have worked anyway if they weren't. Just wanted to be doubly sure. Don't think it matters if they were sequence for this to work.

[Sangreaal]

Thanks for the info, Bob. This is my first experience with external pumps and I'm eyeing a Sequence that doesn't have a priming pump for a good price. Don't know a thing about running something like this, and words like "check valve" and "hose bib" are Greek to me. *L* Still, I need to graduate from submersible, so here I go on the learning curve again. Pray for me please.

The pump I'm looking at is 1/4hp + (whatever the + means), 260 watts, 15000 litres per hour, 230v. I don't know the model number, but it looks like a beefy pump. I just hope it works for my application.

[Bob Winkler]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sangreaal Thanks for the info, Bob. This is my first experience with external pumps and I'm eyeing a Sequence that doesn't have a priming pump for a good price. Don't know a thing about running something like this, and words like "check valve" and "hose bib" are Greek to me. *L* Still, I need to graduate from submersible, so here I go on the learning curve again. Pray for me please. The pump I'm looking at is 1/4hp + (whatever the + means), 260 watts, 15000 litres per hour, 230v. I don't know the model number, but it looks like a beefy pump. I just hope it works for my application.

A check valve is an inline device that usually has a "flapper" that is open (because of suction pressure) if flow is coming through, and closes (by gravity and/or water pressure) if flow stops. This allows water flow in only one direction. They are available at many hardware stores and are not very expensive. Some have springs instead of a "flapper". I paid a little more for ours so they could be opened easily and cleaned. They have a clear side for viewing the working parts. The down side of check valves can be that in the long run, they can get algae and gunk on them, and then not seal as well when you need them to. So you could place a ball valve before the check valve, then the check valve and then another valve and/or the pump. Sounds complicated perhaps, but it really isn't. I just don't like getting wet if i do not need to

Russ Peters has these in operation at his store, if that is close enough for you to get to and you want that "visual" to get the idea. You can also see this application with ball valves, and check valves and hose bibs on the PVC Lines in the pictures of our pond build here on bito.

A hose bib I am describing is just like what you hook a hose up to on the side of the house. But in the PVC Pipe, and it has a different thread than normal PVC threaded fittings. We placed a "double female" hose fitting on the end which allowed the male end of a hose to be attached, which allowed us to fill the line with a normal hose.

Again, these parts are all available at most hardware stores . This all sounds harder than it is when written out in long form. The important thing is the concept of what you are trying to do. The pump you are looking at will work above water like you want it to, just have to do a couple things to make it workable.

[koiczar]

Marie

The only downside to not using a priming pot (leaf trap as they are better known) is that you could get debris into the impeller and cause the pump to clog, seriously reducing water flow or, even worse, causing the pump to overheat, thereby kicking off the capacitor and shutting down the pump. Now, if you're pulling water from a settling chamber rather than directly from the pond, your chances of clogging the impeller are greatly reduced and this would probably work fine. Actually, you will improve the performance of your pump without the leaf trap if you can do it that way.

Another thing, if you are installing the pump BELOW water line, you will only need a "ball valve". The check valve will not be necessary in this installation as gravity flow of water will be non existent.

The pump you mention is a quarter horse pump, but is wired for 230W power supply. Do you have a "standard 110V" electrical source near the pond? If so, this will not work. If the pump can be wired for EITHER 110/220 you'll have to have the internal wiring changed for it to work for your application. Send me a pm, so we can discuss some other options on pumps. I might be able to get you something "ready to go" for less money!?

Mike

[luke frisbee]

Marie,
Birdman is having a sale on his pumps on his site and they seem to be quite well priced and as good as sequence..maybe better.

[Sangreaal]

Sandy, how did I miss your post the first time? I must be getting old and blind and senile.. *L* Thanks. That's part of what I needed to know.

Bob, you paint a very good picture with your explanations. Now I know what a check valve is AND a hose bib...even though a hose bib still doesn't match my own interpretation of what a 'bib' is. *L* Pump will be below water level and behind a gravel filter/before a bakki, so perhaps I am safe without a priming pot.

Mike, thanks. Expect a PM from me soon. The project with the Sequence that I may get is only one of 4 tanks to set up. Talk about finding a steep part of the learning curve....I'm there. As far as the 110/220 situation, I have both near the ponds. Luckily I have a good handle on working with electricity, so tapping into 220 won't be much of a problem. It's the water flow I need a primer on. That, and air. I have a commercial blower for air to the ponds. Learning how to route it, what pipes/manifolds/diffusers to use are still waiting for me up there on the ledge of the learning curve....

Luke, I've been looking at Steve's pumps too. In this one instance, the Sequence is cheaper than his cheapest. But I'll need 3 more....

[Rich L]

Sandy, you don’t want a pump set up for 220. The load you are talking about is very light and won’t need the higher voltage. Get the pump with a 110 volt cord attached.Stick to name brand pumps, Sequence, Performance Pro, or Aqua Flow are major suppliers and their products have been through impressive quality control processes. Some others may tell you their pump is as good but you’re taking a chance with the quality of pond installation folks in your area. Stick to a local koi dealer with a store front. Patronizing them will be appreciated and they will be eager to help you when you need help.If someone tries to talk you into another pump email me and I will take a look.Where are you located in N. Cal? You may be able to have an AKCA Koi Health Advisor(KHA) drop by and give you some valuable pointers before you do anything. That’s our job and we do it for free although we would appreciate people covering expenses (gas) but don’t let that worry you, it’s not absolutely necessary. There are several KHAs in the SF Bay Area. Another suggestion is to drop in on a local koi club some of them have good info and friendly people.

[Sangreaal]

Quote: Originally Posted by Rich L Sandy, you don’t want a pump set up for 220. The load you are talking about is very light and won’t need the higher voltage. Get the pump with a 110 volt cord attached.Stick to name brand pumps, Sequence, Performance Pro, or Aqua Flow are major suppliers and their products have been through impressive quality control processes. Some others may tell you their pump is as good but you’re taking a chance with the quality of pond installation folks in your area. Stick to a local koi dealer with a store front. Patronizing them will be appreciated and they will be eager to help you when you need help.If someone tries to talk you into another pump email me and I will take a look.Where are you located in N. Cal? You may be able to have an AKCA Koi Health Advisor(KHA) drop by and give you some valuable pointers before you do anything. That’s our job and we do it for free although we would appreciate people covering expenses (gas) but don’t let that worry you, it’s not absolutely necessary. There are several KHAs in the SF Bay Area. Another suggestion is to drop in on a local koi club some of them have good info and friendly people.

Hi Rich,

Thanks for your input. Why not 220? It's just as easy for me to go 220vac as 115vac. Either way the wattage is the same. Only the amps go down, helping the pump run cooler, correct? This may be a good thing in the long run since it's hellishly hot here in the summer months.

I have two, sometimes insurmountable, problems that prevent me from going to a local koi dealer with a storefront for a name brand pump like the Sequence AND having a local KHA stop by. The operative words are "local" and "affordable" uttered in the same breath. When one lives in Dairyville, well upstate of any large population center in northern California, nothing is local OR affordable. The closest koi dealer with a storefront is a watergarden 40 miles away. I don't need to expound on that--visited there before and they really wouldn't be of any help. The closest KHA is 50 miles away and I don't suspect he'll hurry on out again either, even if I pay for gas (which he refused, saying that KHA's cannot get monetary recompense for any reason--wish I'd made him lunch ).

Cost is a HUGE matter to me. Just can't afford name-brand-made-exclusively-for-koi equipment at MSRP most of the time. So if my long distance friends here at KB and elsewhere can't help me, I'm up the proverbial creek without a paddle and doing the breaststroke to tow the DIY canoe home by myself. Which is fine...I'm a good swimmer.

Marie