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Thread: Quarantine Procedure

  1. #1
    Sansai WayneB's Avatar
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    Quarantine Procedure

    Hi I need to quarantine 3 kois from 3 diffirent sources over the next few weeks or months?

    I will be able to quarantine them seperatly but can someone please give me a day by day quarantine guide.

  2. #2
    Sansai WayneB's Avatar
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    Is there nobody that can even give me a guideline on how to go about quarantining my new koi?

  3. #3
    Daihonmei PapaBear's Avatar
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    I think we've all been a bit pre-occupied with some of the other stuff and your query got missed

    I suppose the first thing would be to know your quarantine set up. How many tanks do you have and how large? Are they already established with mature water/media? Are they indoor or out? Are they temperature controlled? Do you plan to do serology on them during the quarantine process?

  4. #4
    Sansai WayneB's Avatar
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    I think we've all been a bit pre-occupied with some of the other stuff and your query got missed
    Hi PappaBear no problem.

    I have 2 temporary quarintine tanks outside and one inside they are 3000 liters each. The media in it is brandnew and so is the water - only been running them for about 2 weeks. I circulate the water 3 times in an hour. They are currently not capable of being temperature controlled but that is something i can add easily.

    Two of the kois come from mud ponds while the other one is the Kindai Showa i showed before on this forum.

    I wish to know the basics steps. What to do when the koi arrives before you place in quarantine. What to check for first. Do i just medicate or determin by microscope if it has something....and then i ofcourse i want to quarintine the koi for KHV. I am 98% sure that the isa showa is clean and was not planning to do the whole KHV test on it but the other two i better check.

    Do you plan to do serology on them during the quarantine process?
    No idea what that is...sorry

  5. #5
    Oyagoi gcuss's Avatar
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    I didn't answer for fear of getting it wrong. I'm currently doing a QT on two tanks. Here's my plan. It may be wrong but it's a starting point, and those with more experience can tweak/change my arrangement perhaps...???

    *** During the following process, I perform daily 5-10 percent water changes religiously. This is party due to my OCD (the doctors think that we're close to a breakthrough on the disorder) and partly due to my desire for fresh water, and stable water. Also, if your QT is like most people, it's smaller than your permanant pond and the water changes are needed for the higher stocking ratio.

    Day 1-7

    Unpack fish, quick scrape and scope as you get them from the bag. (photos are optional, but I can resist)
    Tank is salted @ .1
    Temp is 65 degrees
    During first week, raise temp to 72, raise salt to .3, no food

    Week 2

    Light feeding commences, daily monitoring of parameters, intervention where neccessary with amquel for ammonia if detected. Salt is present if nitrite detected. At the end of week two, do another scrape/scope. If negative for parasites on both scrapes. I stop doing them and just observe behavoir for parasite problems.

    Week 3

    Lower temps down to approx 64 over 2 days, then cycle back up over two days to 72. Then on the 5th day I add supplementary heat and drive temps up to the high 70's. Maintain upper 70's through week 4.

    Week 4

    At about the middle of week 4, allow temps to drop back to ambient. Maintain light feeding, remain vigilant on water testing. Begin purging salt from system.

    Week 5 - 6

    Follow temp lowering, then raising procedure again from week 3.

    Following the second heat cycle, if I haven't had any parasite problems, no wierd behavior etc... basically all things appear to be fine. I'll now add one of my current stock to the QT. They'll just hang together for 2 weeks. If all is well after 2 weeks with one of my existing koi, I'll cycle the heat 1 more time. If still no problem. IMO, I've done what I can and it's time for the pucker moment and I'll add the new fish to my current stock.

    ****HUGE DISCLAIMER- If I were adding fish from anywhere other than a source I'm familiar with, or have a lot of confindence in, I'll probably double all the time frames noted as a minimum. And I would do serology testing on them.

    Hope this helps!

    Grant

  6. #6
    Daihonmei PapaBear's Avatar
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    I rather like Grant's procedure, but I might do a few things differently. Much is a matter of personal preference so don't assume my notions are somehow better, just preferred by me.

    I would add up front that adding mature media and water from one of your existing ponds will be beneficial to getting your bio up and running rapidly. I'm pretty sure that's what Grant did with his anyway.

    At the time of adding the mature media/water I would introduce 2 "canary Koi" from the pond to keep the media supplied with ammonia and allow the water to become fully mature and stable before the new fish arrived.

    When the new fish arrive perform the inspections as Grant describes and add them to the quarantine tanks. If you wish you could remove the Canary Koi before doing this and then add them back later as Grant describes. IF the Koi you receive do have health issues that would protect the Canaries from unnecessary immediate exposure.

    Many people like to add elbagin to the Quarantine tanks at the beginning. It is a therapeutic treatment and mild sedative that will help them as they transition to their new environment by treating for any minor infections/infestations while calming them at the same time.

    Beyond those minor differences I think Grant's overall approach is pretty thorough and like him I'd strongly consider serology (khv testing) especially for Koi from an unfamiliar source.

    One other thing to consider. You said that 2 Koi are coming from the same mud pond and the 3rd from a different source. Keeping the 2 that come together in the same q-tank is fine, but the 3rd should be kept in separate quarantine along with a Canary Koi companion. Having a companion will make the quarantine period less stressful which will improve its overall quarantine time. In any case, all of them should not be quarantined without a companion fish.

    You should also have secure net covers for each tank just in case any of them are "jumpers".
    Larry Iles
    Oklahoma

  7. #7
    Nisai Bobby's Avatar
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    Very good feedback, I have found that the Elbagin works well to calm new arrivals.

    During first week, raise temp to 72, raise salt to .3, no food
    Is the 72F or 22.2C the max raised temp to complete test?
    The lower temp of 65F or 18C also very low in SA as of now, average day time temp for this point in time around 70F or 21C as our weather is only starting to cool down at night and still very warm days.

    Would a raised temp of 76F or 24.4C be to high under the circumstances?

  8. #8
    Oyagoi gcuss's Avatar
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    Couple things then...

    I do use seasoned water, and seasoned media as Larry indicated. I like the idea of having it running for a few weeks prior to the fish arriving to ensure that things are up and roaring for the new fish. Remember, the new fish are going to be already quite stressed and their environment shouldn't be the source of any additional stress if possible. And I would take them out prior to adding the new fish, but this is mostly because I don't have any "extra" fish... And if I had elbagin, I would definitely use it as I've heard nothing but good things about it.

    One other thing I forgot. I use netting, but I also use a shade cloth for the first while and keep their days somewhat short (lightwise) to help keep them calm and make them feel secure. This might be primarily because they're in my damn kitchen and there's too much activity to allow them to rest... !!

    And Bobby, I'm not sure how much it matters where in the 70's you do your thing. I just like to spike the temps somewhat quickly to encourage a breakout of some sort if one is looming in the background.

    Best of luck!

    Grant

  9. #9
    Daihonmei MikeM's Avatar
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    If possible, do not let the water temperature go above 80F. Around 78F is warm enough.

  10. #10
    Sansai WayneB's Avatar
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    Is the 72F or 22.2C the max raised temp to complete test?
    I think the reason Bobby is asking the question is because we have been told that at 28'C and above you kill the KHV virus but the fish becomes a KHV carrier which can then NOT test possitive for KHV via pcr tests.

    We do not want to create carriers.

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