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Thread: Importing Koi-Japan to South Africa

  1. #1
    Tosai
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    Feb 2010
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    Importing Koi-Japan to South Africa

    Hello Everyone


    Hope you all are having a good Monday


    I have a few questions needless to say about importing koi and would highly appreciate any replies:


    • Once the koi have arrived what do you usually do to revive them?
    • Any ideas for an affordable way to quarantine the koi?
    • What water parameters would you set or try to set the pond to
    • What temperature should the pond be?
    • When would you feed them after you have unpacked them?
    • Would you just take them out and lay the koi in their plastics bags on top of the water for half an hour
    • How long would you usually keep them in quarantine for?
    • What are the usually mortality rates?

    And can anyone take me through step by step

    I appreciate any reply

    Kindest Regards,

    David

  2. #2
    Oyagoi kingkong's Avatar
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    I will start:
    I slowly open box in shaded area and look for fish that are still living. If fish are alive than go to next step.
    I have prepared a Q tank with clean water with air pump in place Ex. Tetra 100.
    Q tank is portable so is set up in shade in quiet place away from light polution.
    I put bag of fish in container to wash plastic 78 degree F water and remove outer layer of bags.
    Rubber band is so tight that when it pops it usually hits you in the face.
    Then I put bag with fish in Q tank water to temp adjust.
    Then I put bag back in container and open complete and slowly add my water to bag.
    Now fish have adjusted to light, temp, my water, I pick up fish out of bag and put in Q tank.
    Fish might go to bottom to adjust further or swim frantically in circles trying to get out.
    Have well fit screen lid ready to place on top tightly to prevent the jumpers from....
    Now you are starting to wonder if this is worth it so take a break.
    Time for parasite scrapping and treatment....I am not good at this so.....

  3. #3
    Tosai
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    Thanks KingKong
    Anyone else?

  4. #4
    Honmei ricshaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingkong View Post
    I will start:
    I slowly open box in shaded area and look for fish that are still living. If fish are alive than go to next step.
    I have prepared a Q tank with clean water with air pump in place Ex. Tetra 100.
    Q tank is portable so is set up in shade in quiet place away from light polution.
    I put bag of fish in container to wash plastic 78 degree F water and remove outer layer of bags.
    Rubber band is so tight that when it pops it usually hits you in the face.
    Then I put bag with fish in Q tank water to temp adjust.
    Then I put bag back in container and open complete and slowly add my water to bag.
    Now fish have adjusted to light, temp, my water, I pick up fish out of bag and put in Q tank.
    Fish might go to bottom to adjust further or swim frantically in circles trying to get out.
    Have well fit screen lid ready to place on top tightly to prevent the jumpers from....
    Now you are starting to wonder if this is worth it so take a break.
    Time for parasite scrapping and treatment....I am not good at this so.....
    Some people do an immediate partial water change at the airport before leaving.

  5. #5
    Oyagoi kingkong's Avatar
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    Good point. Airport pick ups are a different animal. My example was box dropped at my location. Airport drop pick up I would take fresh fish water, bags, oxygen and large cooler. If the cargo has been in transit for 20 hours, Johannesburg-Tokyo, every precaution helps.

  6. #6
    Oyagoi RayJordan's Avatar
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    You need to find someone experienced with handling fish shipments from long distance/time transportation to assist you the first time. easy to kill and or damage most of the koi if you do it wrong !!!

    Koi shipped from Japan are likely to be in the bag closer to 30 hours than 20 hours. For tosai they will likely arrive in pretty stressed condition. Larger/older koi will handle shipping somewhat better.

    The amount of dissolved ammonia in the bags will be massive. What keeps the ammonia relatively non-toxic is dropping pH due to koi converting 02 to C02 which lowers the pH of the water in the bag. Once the bag is opened and the C02 begins to escape the high ammonia starts to burn the koi immediately. Also do not add water with a higher pH to the bag!!! Expect the pH of the water in the bags to be ~ 6.0 pH or even lower. Beware, if you quickly move/adjust the koi from a very low pH condition to a higher pH condition you can also kill the koi. They can tolerate about a 1.0 change in pH which is actually a 10X change. If the difference is 2.0pH that is a 100X change and will likely kill smaller koi and highly stress larger koi. If the water temperture is more than 5 F colder or 8F warmer you can kill the koi unless you adjust the difference.

    What you need to do is prepare quarantine tank/s with excellent water quality, working mature biofilters, high oxygen levels, and pH that is no more than 1.0 different than the expected pH of the fish bags when received. I would shoot for a pH of about 6.8 for the q-tank. I also reccomend adding salt at 0.3 % to the q-tank.

    When fish arrive float the inner fish bags (remove outer bag) to allow water temperture in the bag to approach the water temp in the Q tank/s. Remember to cover the tank tightly with a strong netting to prevent jumpers from leaping out. Test the q-tank water for ammonia at 30 minutes and 1 hour after adding new koi and be prepared to add ammonia binder as needed to prevent ammonia from becoming toxic. Plan on a 30% water change 8-10 hours after adding to q-tank.

    You need to find someone experienced with handling fish shipments from long distance/time transportation to assist you the first time. easy to kill and or damage most of the koi if you do it wrong.
    Disclosure:These opinions are based on my experience and conversations with persons I consider accomplished koi keepers and do not reflect the viewpoint of any organization.

  7. #7
    Oyagoi kingkong's Avatar
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    I do not have biofilters on my Q tank but a like to 'boil' the water surface with strong air so surface tension breaks and gasses are exchanged along with daily water changes.

  8. #8
    Oyagoi Flounder's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting Ray. What you described is what must be done each time and this is the way to do it. I read a post by JR somewhere & it was the same w/ what he said.

  9. #9
    Tosai
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    Thanks everyone

  10. #10
    Daihonmei MikeM's Avatar
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    I recall a dealer talking about how he kept losing a large percentage of tosai imported from Japan. Then he tested the pH of the shipping bag water and found it was as generally 5.5, but occasionally a bag would test as low as 5.0. So, he began preparing water in advance of arrival to have a pH of 5.5 to 6.0. The large losses stopped. But, he continued to test the pH of shipping bag water so a higher pH would be noted when it occurred and those fish handled accordingly. The pH of the acclimation tank was adjusted upward over a period of a week. Unless something obvious was noted, the fish were allowed a week to settle down before being handled for parasite examination, etc.

    With the high pH of my source water, I can't imagine trying to get enough water with a pH of 5.5 for dealing with hundreds of tosai. It reminds me why I gave up discus.

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