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Thread: Help! Costia is in my pond

  1. #11
    Sansai redman's Avatar
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    I used Quick Cure in the past however I have been able to find it anywhere in over a year in my area -NY. Was it taken off the market? I still have some unopened. Whats the shelf life on this stuff?

  2. #12
    Daihonmei
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaidoi View Post
    PP will take care of Costia and Flukes, but not sure about Chilodonella. The dosage rate of 2 grams per 1,000 gallons. The key with PP is a clean pond. You need to keep the water purple for 8 hours. Be sure to turn off your UV light during treatment.

    Proform C works on Costia and Chilo, but not Flukes. If you can get your hands on Formalin (37% Formaldehyde) and Malachite Green Crystals it will be cheaper then buying Proform C. The AKCA Guide to Koi Health suggests mixing 28 grams of MG to 1 gallon of Formalin. At this mixture you need to apply 1 cup to 4800 gallons. At your temp of 60 degrees, the guide recommends treatments every 5 days for 20 days to break the Costia cycle. After your done, watch your water quality carefully. Reason being, your filter maybe significantly knocked back after using F/MG.

    Good luck!
    ABSOLUTELY PP will fry chilodonella. Again, do some study on the parasites we commonly encounter as a species and related species.
    you have species that shed a shell and are chitin based in structure. Dimilin interfers with that development and shedding.
    You have species like Costia , trichodina and chiliodonella and they are all protozoa species and are thin walled delicate creatures that PP oxidizes.
    And you have Flukes ( not a protozoa or a chitin based creature) that is in a separate family of species. They need poisoning. So insecticides or other compounds that poison or damage their metabolic rate is ideal. In this case, the only difference between the death of the fluke and the death of the fish is down to dose. In the case of anchor worms for instance, you can kill them by poisoning or you can target their unique physical requirements.
    But Chilodonella and Costia and trichodina-- they are physically destroyed thru oxidation reaction. JR

  3. #13
    Daihonmei
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    Quote Originally Posted by redman View Post
    I used Quick Cure in the past however I have been able to find it anywhere in over a year in my area -NY. Was it taken off the market? I still have some unopened. Whats the shelf life on this stuff?
    Most of those clear or bluish proprietary products are unidentified but are all typically Formalin based. They don't like to put the active ingredient on the label as people would get it cheaper and in larger quantities if they knew what was in it. In some cases, these products are removed from the market by regulation of shipping contents or consumer protection laws.
    It is important to store all formalin in a room temperature or cooler place and out of the sun. If any proprietary product is old, especially if it has been opened and in contact with the air, should be thrown out. JR

  4. #14
    Oyagoi Eugeneg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KoiStory3 View Post
    I saw a few of my fish flashing today so I decided to scrape them both and look under the microscope, fish 1 has an ulcer already and the microscopic exam for him showed costia, flukes and chilodonella. Then I scraped fish 2 who looked healthy besides the flashing, his exam showed flukes. I did a bunch of reading and research and have found very conflicting information. I am mostly worried about the costia and i read that costia is immune to salt online and I read in a koi disease book to just salt the pond. I've read quick cure is the best I've read proform c is the best and also just salt.

    Please reply if you've dealt with costia before and how you got rid of it. any help would be greatly appreciated by me and my fish.

    Ph is 8.2
    Salinity .25
    Temperature is 60 degrees
    Nitrates are safe
    and everything else was normal.
    If you have spotted ulcers you are too late for salt and I would go with PP
    Everyone has their own methods. I do not like to use any treatment at all
    especially pp. I have however found mostly the hard way that when I bring in the fish from the mud pond it is wise to pp twice 3 days apart.
    The fish are then in my greehouse ponds with the temperature going as low as 45f as I do a little heating with a wood stove and oil furnace. The koi feed on moss growing on the sides of the pond. Should I use pp it would destroy the moss which also helps in filtration. I observe carefully and if there is any sign of continued flashing I immediately give the pond a salt treatment. Quite costly to use salt but up so far this winter I only had to do one 7000 pond. I try to avoid stressing fish in colder temperatures
    so make my decisions on flashing rather than scraping.
    Regards
    Eugene

  5. #15
    Oyagoi kntry's Avatar
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    JR, what is the dosage rate for the PP treatment. Years ago, I was given a PP treatment (through pm) by a long ago member here for the "resistant" strain of Costia. My sister had it with new fish she bought and nothing worked on them. We used this very strong PP treatment and the fish were fine.

  6. #16
    Daihonmei
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    Hi Kntry, I have to favorite formulas I will share with you. I've converted to gallons--
    I measure this dose using a triple beam balance and I dissolve the dose in a bucket of water before adding it to the pond. I then place the pour into the return or over air stones or it is well mixed in the pond.

    The first is a weaker dose of 8 grams per 1000 gallons US of water. I leave it for 6-8 hours and use this for newly imported koi with protozoa infestations.

    The second dose is stronger and depending on the time of year or cleanliness of the pond, I will use this one ( It is the one I use on my personal imports after a week or so of rest).
    22 grams to 2500 gallons of water. This is a 'hotter ' dose and must be monitored. It will grow weaker after an hour or so and the ORP reading will begin to drop off from the mid ti high 500mV range. I keep this going for eight hours ( so start in the morning) and then do a 50% water change in the quarantine take where I do this treatment. Consider refill time if you have to turn off filters due to design during refill.
    JR

  7. #17
    Oyagoi Eugeneg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasPR View Post
    Hi Kntry, I have to favorite formulas I will share with you. I've converted to gallons--
    I measure this dose using a triple beam balance and I dissolve the dose in a bucket of water before adding it to the pond. I then place the pour into the return or over air stones or it is well mixed in the pond.

    The first is a weaker dose of 8 grams per 1000 gallons US of water. I leave it for 6-8 hours and use this for newly imported koi with protozoa infestations.

    The second dose is stronger and depending on the time of year or cleanliness of the pond, I will use this one ( It is the one I use on my personal imports after a week or so of rest).
    22 grams to 2500 gallons of water. This is a 'hotter ' dose and must be monitored. It will grow weaker after an hour or so and the ORP reading will begin to drop off from the mid ti high 500mV range. I keep this going for eight hours ( so start in the morning) and then do a 50% water change in the quarantine take where I do this treatment. Consider refill time if you have to turn off filters due to design during refill.
    JR
    I would not disagree with this method however some people do not have the understanding of measurement and could make a deadly mistake.
    I use the measurement of one teaspoon for each 1000 gal. Since a teaspoon measurement using a teaspoon is not the most accurate method I use a graduated sliding scale cooking tea spoon.
    On the treatment I watch the color carefully so that the purple starts to turn to brown after 5hr that shows me the dosage is not to strong. The first treatment kills of all the algae as well as the mucus coat. On the next treatment usually 2 days later a lot smaller dosage is required for the 5hr before the pink color starts to turn.
    Of course water changes have to be made and I skim off the residue from
    the surface. When finished I salt for the purpose of helping the mucus coating to recover.
    Regards
    Eugene

  8. #18
    Daihonmei
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    Agreed Eugene. I'm not a fan of the teaspoon other than for adding sugar to coffee.
    That is why I use a triple beam balance whenever it comes to compounds that will mingle with my pets.
    I make my own mix of organophosphates and mal green for flukes. A super one-two punch for all flukes. And I wouldn't dare with a teaspoon! JR

  9. #19
    Oyagoi HEADACHE6's Avatar
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    Bumping for a Koi Friend.

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