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Thread: show questions... first time taking fish to show,, not just buying and entering

  1. #11
    Tategoi hewhoisatpeace's Avatar
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    Mike, I think Dick has changed some of his recommendations based on his experiences.

    Loco, I am strongly in favor of Elbagin for transport. It seems to calm the fish, and is a systemic microbial agent. That means that the fish absorbs Elbagin into its system readily, adding insurance that it may retard or eliminate any possible exposure to little bad things at shows. I use Prime or Ultimate in the transport bag, too, a strong dose.

    Another helpful thing: Pool noodles. They are great to fill in corners in your coolers and help reduce the width of the transport bag to avoid the fish turning in the bag. Ideally, the fish is very still in a dark transport bag. Also, load koi with head to one side or the other, never head facing the front or rear of the vehicle. Fast stops break fins and faces that way, better for the koi in an unexpected stop to be sideways.
    Will Schultze
    (931) 338-6174



  2. #12
    Tategoi hewhoisatpeace's Avatar
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    I think your 100% a week is great.

  3. #13
    Tategoi Loco4Koi's Avatar
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    I have a full time active q-tank. A 300gallon rubbermaid stock tank with a full time 12" resident goldfish. For the last 6 weeks ive been heavily feeding blackwater gold... im switching to saki hikari professional multi season for this last few weeks of feeding...Ill transfer koi to q-tank one week before show, doing a 50% daily water change in the q-tank. I'll be using pond water to fill it up. My Q-tank filter is a single, well established, 55gallon barrel STUFFED with pallet strapping.. the q-tank has two, 2" BD's feeding the upflow barrel with a 1000gph pump.
    I read to salt the q-tank heavily prior to the show...should I? If so, what ppm?
    As for choosing fish for the show,, thats a relatively easy choice,, at most I have five worthy of public viewing at a show... three that might actually be competitive.... im doing this out of a desire for the experience,,, I have no expectations of winning.. heres piccs of my candidates and see what you all think... don't be too harsh please
    Fyi.... i never use color boosters,, i hate yellow heads...lol
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails show questions... first time taking fish to show,, not just buying and entering-attachment-11.jpeg   show questions... first time taking fish to show,, not just buying and entering-attachment-12.jpeg   show questions... first time taking fish to show,, not just buying and entering-attachment-18.jpeg   show questions... first time taking fish to show,, not just buying and entering-attachment-19.jpeg   show questions... first time taking fish to show,, not just buying and entering-attachment-10.jpeg  

    show questions... first time taking fish to show,, not just buying and entering-attachment-9.jpeg   show questions... first time taking fish to show,, not just buying and entering-attachment-8.jpeg   show questions... first time taking fish to show,, not just buying and entering-attachment-6.jpeg   show questions... first time taking fish to show,, not just buying and entering-attachment-5.jpeg  

  4. #14
    Tategoi semi skilled keeper's Avatar
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    Hi ALL, You guys have covered all the points I mentioned (and MORE ) on the Preparing kio for shows Thread.
    I am glad to say that THIS TIME i'm not so far off with your thoughts.
    Go enjoy your days and hope you do well ! Don't beat your self up , unless you do something stupid!
    GREAT POINT RE pointing your fish across your transport !

  5. #15
    Oyagoi RayJordan's Avatar
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    Here are tips for prep and transportation on our club website. Joe feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

    PREPARING and TRANSPORTING KOI TO A SHOW by Ray Jordan
    PREPARING KOI FOR A SHOW
    There are no magic water/food additives you can easily use a few months before a show to greatly enhance the appearance of your koi for a show. However there are many additives that will spoil your fish’s appearance. Best preparation is to provide the best possible water quality for an extended period if not all year long. DO provide highest possible water quality at all times but especially two months before a show: Increase water changes, pond/filter maintenance, and gradually reduce amount fed two months before the show. DO NOT feed your fish for 5-7 days before a show. It is also beneficial to maintain a lower fish density to improve water quality and allow your koi to develop to their genetic potential.
    There is a lot of misinformation about different koi foods and water conditioners that can easily improve the color of your koi and/or their skin condition. Be aware that the only color than can be enhanced by feeding “color” foods is the red color. However the downside of color food is the white skin color can be easily dulled and tinted a yellow or pink color. My advice is to avoid color food, especially for the 2-3 months leading up to a koi show. Beginning about two months before a koi show slowly reduce the amount of food given by 50%. At the same time you should be increasing the amount of water changes and filter cleanings to about twice the usual amount. Beginning about one month before a show reduce the amount of food given by another 50% and keep increasing frequency and the amount of water changes and filter cleanings. Smaller but more frequent water changes provide for a more stable and higher quality water condition and are usually much better than fewer but larger water changes. Remember to treat your water with an appropriate chlorine or chloramine remover depending on your source water situation.
    Also you want to avoid any treatments for parasites, etc. in the few months before a show. These treatments can be harsh on koi skin and color and it takes a while for your koi to bounce back from these treatments. If you suspect you might have a disease problem it should be identified and treated as early as possible. Do not rely on hope that all will be fine by doing nothing. It is very easy with today’s improved microscopes to check your koi 3-4 months before a show if you suspect any problems. Then you can treat the koi and give them ample time to recover completely before taking them to a show.
    TRANSPORTING KOI TO A SHOW
    A proper koi net is necessary to minimize damage to koi. It should be shallow and the netting smooth and non-abrasive. The koi net should be larger by at least 25% than the koi length. The goal is to guide the koi with the net into a tub without touching it. Take it slow and easy. It is easier to catch fish in a pond with corners. Approach the koi with the net from the front getting the net under its body and gently guiding it into a tub. Forget trying to chase a koi from the rear try to intercept it as it moves forward. Touch the tail or move the net quickly and the koi will dart or jump away. Never try to snag a koi that is trying to jump – let it go and start over.
    A single experienced person can net/guide/tip a koi into a floating tub but two people make everything much easier. Never lift koi with the koi net! Koi nets are made to corral the koi and hold it in the water until it can be placed in a plastic bag with water. Koi need to float in water to prevent injury. Once the koi and water are placed in a plastic bag the bag can be lifted with the koi suspended in water and moved without hurting the koi.
    If you have never netted and bagged koi you would be wise to practice several times prior to show day. If you can ask someone that is experienced to demonstrate how to catch and bag your koi a few weeks before the show.
    It is easier to net koi from a smaller pond without obstacles or hiding places. In ponds with potted water plants it might be better to remove or push the plants together in a corner while catching koi. At times lowering the water level and or wading into a shallow pond will make catching koi easier. Sometimes a second koi net handler can help herd koi into the net of the primary handler. If your pond is too wide or does not lend itself to any of the above methods, a seine net may be used to gently herd the koi into a more confined area. Aquatic Ecosystems is a good source for custom made seines and they can help you determine size and type. I suggest getting double floats and weights. Koi tubs also need to be properly sized and smooth. Tilt the tub to near vertical position in the pond about half submerged. As the koi is guided into the tub tilt the tub back to horizontal with enough water to completely cover the koi but not so much as to encourage it to jump. Koi sock nets with fine water retaining mesh are the best way to move koi from the tub into the transport bags. The koi is brought through the opening of the net head first by carefully advancing the net over the head of the koi or by manipulating the head of the koi into the net with your free hand. The koi is positioned in the middle of the net, the end of the net is closed by one hand of the holder, the handle end of the net is folded over to retain the koi the hands are spread apart as the koi is lifted from the water. A head first exit of the koi from the sock net is preferred to avoid possible fin or scale damage.
    Use 3 or 4 mil plastic bags for transporting koi. Double bag for extra safety. Bag size depends upon the size of the koi. Large koi need to be carried with the bag horizontal and held tautly between two handlers to help prevent the koi from bending too much and hurting themselves. The opening of the plastic bags should be rolled down to create a smoother edge. Use koi sock net to move koi into bag or koi be scooped directly from a tub into the bag. (use one hand to direct the koi head first into the bag) There should be enough water in the bag to float the koi as the bag is transported to its destination. There also needs to be enough oxygen for the trip so at least ½ of the bag volume should be oxygen and 2/3 bag volume of oxygen is preferred.
    SHOW TRANSPORTATION TIPS
    Get the proper equipment: You will need a “real koi net”, koi sock net, large plastic bags, “new” rubber bands, oxygen tank and regulator.
    * DO NOT FEED your show fish for 5 - 7 days prior. This is very important to reduce ammonia stress on your fish during transportation.
    * Catch your fish very GENTLY as last thing you do before leaving home.
    * Transport in cool covered containers (large ice chests are ideal) to maintain constant water temperature and a darkened environment.
    * Ice packs maybe used inside the container but OUTSIDE the fish bags to keep water cooler and fish more relaxed.
    * Fish should be “double bagged” with water and bags inflated with oxygen and securely closed with double rubber bands inside a cooler. If available use a tiny amount of elbagin or other well tested treatments such as bag buddies, etc. Adding too much of any treatment to the bag water can harm your koi. It is better to add nothing but clean healthy water than add the wrong stuff or adding too much of the right stuff. Remember most bags only have a few gallons of water volume so a little additive goes a long way.
    * For trips less than 3-4 hours healthy clean pond water can be used but never bag with green water.
    * For longer trips greater than 4 hours prepare new clean dechorinated water that has been aerated.
    * Be sure bags & coolers are large enough for fish to stay relaxed & unbent. No more koi per bag/cooler than fit comfortably side by side with some space in-between. Bags should be at least 18 inches longer than koi to allow bags to be closed securely and still leave adequate space for koi. Containers should be at least six inches longer than koi.
    * Be sure to use enough water to COMPLETELY cover your fish and allow it to float comfortably. Cramped or koi in too small a container will tend to jump and injure themselves. If in doubt move to larger bags/container.
    * DO NOT put small fish in same bag/cooler with significantly larger fish. They need to be transported in separate containers.
    * Orient containers so that fish ride SIDE WAYS to direction of travel.
    * DO NOT place coolers directly in the sun or near other sources of heat. ( i.e., over hot spot caused by exhaust side of trunk)
    * Reduce time of transportation by driving directly to destination.
    * When you arrive at destination float bags in your assigned tank. DO NOT add tank water to the bag! After 10-15 minutes open bag and lift by hand the koi out of the bag and into show tank.If you want some help just ask the show staff and they can assist you or show you the best techniques. DO not place dirty bag water into your tank dump bag water as directed by show staff.
    Returning home after a show
    Again ask for help if wanted to catch and bag your koi. GOod idea to use new bags and rubber bands if possible. Treat your returning koi as if they may have been stressed or received minor damage or exposed to something at the show or during the transport.
    If you have a adequate quarantine system with excellent water quality place your koi in quarantine for 4 weeks at permissive KHV temps and watch closely for any issues like parasites or minor injury or infection to fins or skin. If you do not have a large enough quarantine tank with excellent water quality place the koi back into your pond and watch closely for the next week.
    Disclosure:These opinions are based on my experience and conversations with persons I consider accomplished koi keepers and do not reflect the viewpoint of any organization.

  6. #16
    Daihonmei dick benbow's Avatar
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    back two weeks ago, an up and comer in the NW show world lost two of his show koi because of an over dose of elbagin. I'd like to see something
    stated here on how to treat the bags for transport with an exact amount rather than "just a pinch"..

    Yes, I've gone away from wheatgerm and feel your regular food they're used to is fine up until the time your stop ( the week before)

    The last coupla shows I've been involved in has had a pass thru water system. I'm convinced this is easier on the koi during the show then the use of chemicals to address ammonia and other concerns. seen fish leave better then they arrived.
    Dick Benbow

  7. #17
    Tategoi Loco4Koi's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone

  8. #18
    Oyagoi HEADACHE6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loco4Koi View Post
    I have a full time active q-tank. A 300gallon rubbermaid stock tank with a full time 12" resident goldfish.
    I read to salt the q-tank heavily prior to the show...should I? If so, what ppm?
    Some hobbyist will move their Koi to a Qt before a Show, but 300 gals. for that many Koi could cause stress. The salt will increase the slime coat of the Koi which can make the skin look Dull. I've heard of hobbyist that will increase the salt a month or so before a Show then remove the salt with water changes, the Koi will then shed the thickened slime coat to have a fresh slime coat. But I wouldn't have salt in the water right before the Show.

  9. #19
    Tategoi semi skilled keeper's Avatar
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    Ray , this is why you should join a Koi Club !

    All you need + access to the people who put it together .

    What more do you need ?

    Fish worthy of showing ( ha ha !)

    Brian

  10. #20
    Tategoi semi skilled keeper's Avatar
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    Love 1,8 and 9
    Good skins on all, scales well defined .
    I would take 9 any day of the week, must look extra special ( in the flesh ) silver edge to skales .
    How is it classed ?Hikarimuji or Yamabuki Ogon ?
    Very nice body shape.

    I also like 6 the true painted effect of the scales on this fish are great !
    Seems like you have done your bits ! The rest is down to GENES !

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