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Thread: String Algae

  1. #21
    Jumbo B.Scott's Avatar
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    I had a great table with readings but it all got jumbled when I posted it. Too bad

    The 50 mg/l is the maximum value allowed. The average sample was 1.27mg/liter.
    String algae problems started in the second year and the pond and filter were 7 years old before I installed the static k prefilter at which point they disappeared. It was a strange sight to behold withing a week of installing the static K the algae went all soft and started breaking off the walls. At 5 weeks the walls were covered in a short layer of soft algae. It the weeks that followed the algae died back leaving ever larger bald patches on the liner until the liner became completely denuded of algae. The whole process took about 12 weeks. The algae that then grew back was short and soft. Strangely enough a small vestige of stringy algae did remain. This was just above the waterline. As an experiment a scrubbed alternate patches of it off and in these places it never returned.
    In the mean time I have deepened my pond and replaced the liner. On this new liner there is also no trace of string algae... Go figure?

    Component -- unit ---- Min. ---- Max. ---- Aver.
    Aluminium ----- g/l AI ----------- 200 -------- 5
    Ammonium -----mg/l NH4 ----------0.2 ------- <0.02
    Arsenic --------g/l As ------------10 ---------1.7
    Boron ----------mg/l B ------------0.5 -------- 0.07
    Cadmium ------ g/l Cd ----------- 5 --------- <0.1
    Calcium --------mg/l Ca -----------* ---------- 52
    Chloride --------mg/l Cl -----------150 ---------54
    Chromium -------g/l Cr ------------50 --------<2
    Fluoride ---------mg/l F ------------1.1 ---------0,23
    Conductivity ----mS/m -------------125 --------45.6
    Iron ------------g/l Fe ------------200 -------<10
    Sodium ---------mg/l K --------------* ---------5.2
    Color intensity --mg/l Pt -------------20 ---------4
    Bacteria-gp-22 --kve/ml ------------100 ---------1
    copper ----------g/l Cu -------------* ---------1.6
    Mercury ---------g/l Hg -------------1 --------<0.02
    Lead ------------g/l Pb -------------25 -------<1
    Magnesium ------mg/l Mg -------------* ---------8
    Manganese ------g/l Mn -------------50 -------<10
    Sodium ----------mg/l Na -----------150 ---------33
    Nickel ------------g/l Ni -------------20 --------1,7
    Nitrate ----------mg/l NO3 -----------50 --------1.27
    Nitrite -----------mg/l NO2 -----------0.1 ------<0.002
    Selenium ---------g/l Se ------------10 -------<0.5
    Silicate -----------mg/l Si ------------* ---------4.8
    Sulfate -----------mg/l SO4 ---------150 --------52
    Temperature -------C ---------------25 --------12.5
    Total Phosphate --mg/l P --------------* --------0.04
    Total hardness ----mmol/l ------1 -----2,5--------1.63
    Turbidity ----------FTE --------------1 ----------0.03
    Carbonate --------mg/l HCO3 --------60 ----------133
    Acidity ------------pH ---------7 -----9,5 --------8,3
    Oxygen ------------mg/l O2 ----2 ----------------9.5
    Semper in excreta, sumus solum profundum variat

  2. #22
    Nisai
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    Thanks everyone for the advices

    Before I posted. I did used the clay. It did not work. I used the brush to clean the wall. It came back in a week or two. So it did not work. I tried to change the water 50%. It came back in a week or two. So it did not work.

    My water is crystal clear. My guess it is the natural cycle of the pond. I will just leave it as is. I will see what will happen next year. Thanks again

    John

  3. #23
    Fry
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    Same here. My pond is in the shade too. My nitrates are perfect. I've not tried chemicals. Yet. It's really a problem that never goes away for me. It's constant. I cannot get it off the liner as it acts like it has roots growing into the pores of it. It can grow 2 feet per day. It's clogging every part of my filtration system that can clog. I honestly will fill in the pond if this doesn't go away at some point because it's just a chore at this point and nothing else.

    I cannot believe someone hasn't yet come up with a fix for this.

  4. #24
    Nisai Werner's Avatar
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    Attaboy/attagirl

    Leaving it alone is not only cheap, but also wise, grasshoppers.

  5. #25
    Jumbo B.Scott's Avatar
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    The down side Werner is it acts like a ponds size brush chamber and traps all the crap in the pond redering the bottom drain and vortex useless!

  6. #26
    Oyagoi bekko's Avatar
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    A very mature pond system will have some string algae, but only in acceptable and desirable amounts. There was some discussion earlier about the various species and the desirable, short, turf-like one (was that here on KB?). Taking drastic steps to control string algae (including chemicals, and even excessive water exchange) in the near term can disrupt the maturation process, reduce biodiversity, and be counter-productive to long-term system stability. In short, you're damned if you do, and damned if you don't. That is why I think that you should try your best to just ignore it and only use manual removal by hand-picking as necessary to get some relief.

    Remember that every glob of green slime you remove from the pond and toss into the flower bed contains nutrients that could, otherwise, be dissolved in the water. However, I'm pretty sure that the control of string algae includes other factors besides dissolved nutrients. Its control may be dependent on the build-up of certain mysterious humic compounds released during plant decay. My long-shot guess is that those discolored, dying mats of string algae (either floating or on the bottom) release an inhibitory compound and that to maintain nice green and rapidly growing string algae you have to keep cropping it and clearing out the old dying stuff.

    -ste veh opk ins

  7. #27
    Nisai
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    Hi everyone,

    Just want to update on the battle of string algae. It is completely eliminated without using any chemical. I increased the flow rate and added the water hyacinth to my water falls about six weeks ago. Feeding stays the same.

    John

  8. #28
    Daihonmei MikeM's Avatar
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    But... would it have been any different without those changes?

  9. #29
    Oyagoi koiczar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjkon View Post
    Hi everyone,

    Just want to update on the battle of string algae. It is completely eliminated without using any chemical. I increased the flow rate and added the water hyacinth to my water falls about six weeks ago. Feeding stays the same.

    John
    John

    That makes a lot of sense. The hyacinth acutally absorb the nitrates and phosphates thereby reducing the food source of the algae. As I mentioned in a post early on, 3 things contribute to string algae - Sunlight (ultraviolet light), nitrates and phosphates. By elimintating two of the three, the algae can't survive. IMHO, that's why it disappeared!!

    Mike

  10. #30
    Jumbo B.Scott's Avatar
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    Easy to say but hard to substantiate. To really be able to make this claim would mean having two identical ponds. One would have Water Hyacinths and the other would not. The amount of fish load and the quantity of food fed would have to be the same. The amount of sunlight received must not differ either.
    If nothing else I would expect a complete analysis of the water parameters at various points before and after before I would believe it was due to the plants. A koi pond goes through a whole series of changes and adaptions as it matures. From a virgin pond to a stable pond can take as much as three years to achieve an equilibrium. The colonization of the filter bacteria and algae on the pond walls will shift and vary according to the age of the pond and the climate fluctuations it is subjected to. In the best of situations the pond has settled into a state of seasonal flux where the various bio-forms fall into a regular rhythm of eb and flow as the input of food, sunlight, temperature and water changes vary in the course of a year.

    If your pond had been up and running for ten years and was plagued with string algae for the last seven at which point you threw in a bunch of water hyacinths and it was all gone, I might be able to give you some benefit of the doubt but even then you would have to take into account the extra shading the hyacinths caused as well as the possibility of the introduction of new algae or bacteria types or even the possibility of aerobic denitrification taking place between the roots.

    I have a little experiment I would like some of you suffering from string algae to try if you have the chance. Take a net and fill it with about 4 liters (or about a gallon) of Kaldnes K1 and place it in the last bay of your filter where it will get a bit of water passing through it. Measure your Nitrate levels before you add it if possible and then just leave it. Let me know if you see any change to the string algae.

    B.Scott

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