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Thread: Koi problems, Pics help Diagnose

  1. #11
    Tosai Bamm Bamm's Avatar
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    Oct 2005
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    STEVE did you turn your 540 reef into a Pond or what? I need to get out there to check out the new tank still

    Dan

  2. #12
    Honmei KoiCop's Avatar
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    Hello Steve . . .

    and welcome to K-B. Sorry to see you're losing fish but listen to REC -- he's world class at helping ponders through just these kinds of things.

    If you don't mind, I've noticed in your posts here the last week that:

    1. You posted pix of your recentlely completed 1,500 gallon liner pond (built less than a month ago), you only have a 55 gal barrel for filtration (with unknown media; also unknown whether it's new or aged media) and a UV; additional unknowns would include supplemental air? bottom drain? pump(s)? water temps? water changes? use of dechlorinators? etc.

    2. You posted three differents sets of tosai you purchased (13 fish, total -- some quite nice ) from several different dealers, but you don't quarrantine new arrivals.

    What I'm trying to gently lead up to is that you're going to be fighting new pond syndrome with koi already compromised by cross-contaminated pathogens and parasites.

    That being said, I'm afraid it's going to get real ugly before you see light at the end of the tunnel. So listen to REC and good luck.
    Don Chandler
    Member: AKCA, ZNA, KoiUSA

  3. #13
    Nisai
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    In my opinion, Flexibacter Columnaris is the bacteria that will cause cottom Mouth Disease. you will see white cotton thick layer on dead tissue on injured koi. normally, algea will get into it and turn it green. Local Temperature play a big role in determine what disease the fish got. If your temp are 90 now, summer time. Your fishes are excused of KHV, Costia and Ich. However, a scope is the sureway.

  4. #14
    Nisai bigred's Avatar
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    May 2006
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    This post was lost so here it is again.

    I used Anti-fluke from APPonds. Here's a link to the item.

    http://www.aq-products.com/Catalog/P...ti%20Fluke.htm

    As for my pond it was started 4/28/06 when it was filled, filter pads are matala green and grey pads in the barrel, Gamma 40 watt UV, just added a 40 air pump and 12" airstone, It has a bottom drain, my pump is the Cascade 1/8-36(3600 [email protected]'), Don't have temp, I do 10-20% water changes a week since fish were added, and I use dechlorinator.
    Thanks Steve

  5. #15
    Nisai bigred's Avatar
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    Unhappy

    Went out to relax by the pond at 7:30 PM when the pond is full shade and I have about 3 with head hanging and 2 that are flashing bad. What the hell can I do? I went out at 3:45 PM and saw no flashing and everyone was huddled down in the bottom under the Lilies. There's no way I can catch any of then since I don't have a big enough net. I also had a bunch of brown floaties today and my water is tea colored. I can still see the bottom but not clearly. Am I going to lose them all?

  6. #16
    Oyagoi
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    Did you scrape and scope them yet? Do you know how to do that? Discovery Store sells microscopes cheap. Describe what you see to REC and follow his advice.

  7. #17
    Oyagoi
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    What do you mean you can't catch them? If you can't afford a net go get some screen material from the hardware and trap them.

  8. #18
    Nisai bigred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by junglegeorge12
    What do you mean you can't catch them? If you can't afford a net go get some screen material from the hardware and trap them.
    Do you think I can just ask them to go into the net? It's not the point of me not being able to afford a net. I can afford whatever I want, it's catching them. Have you tried to catch a 6-8" wild Koi in a 13'x10' 1500 gal pond before? Is not a cake walk! Last time I ended up draining my pond less then half to remove some Koi and I know that's not good for them either but if that's what I need to do please let me know REC. I would rather not do that because it adds more stress to the fish that are already on the edge and it could push them to death. I gave you good picture with macro and I thought you'd be able to tell by that but maybe I was wrong.

  9. #19
    Oyagoi koiczar's Avatar
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    Steve

    Sorry to say this but, yes, you're wrong. And your not getting the fish into a safer environment and not scoping them could result in them being "dead wrong". Please, remove the plants from the pond, drain it down halfway if you have to and get them into a quarantine tank that is "super clean". The "macro" pics you showed in the beginning of the thread are great, but they're not going to allow anyone to diagnose as the parasites and bacteria are way to small to see with the naked eye.

    Good Luck

    Mike

  10. #20
    Sansai Tamianth's Avatar
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    Hi Steve,

    Mike is spot on, it takes a microscope to see most of the parasites that fish can have. Do stop useing the ph junk, it allows the water to fluctuate which in itself can be stressful to fish and this is not good and frankly, a waste of money!

    Right now, these fish need stabile water, pristine and proper medical treatments. *If* you feel you have a problem with your ph, then test it early am, late pm, and sometimes dureing the night. This will show if there's any fluctuations in regards, Secondly, test the gh & kh values. Similarly, the source should be tested as a baseline reading for all including ammonia,nitrite and nitrate. Get a notebook to keep track of this as well as source should be checked for any changes as well over time.

    Third, make sure to answer all questions, no matter how irrelevant they may seem. A pond is a complex system and there's so many things that can go out of wack or be cause. The questions folks ask have a purpose, its like painting a picture for all to see what you are.

    I can see your a bit frustrated and stressed here, so stop, take a step back, deep breath and exhale. Stress isn't going to help you or the fish!

    Now, I'll go leave REC a pm to have a look see.
    ~Kathy

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