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Thread: Small Particles

  1. #1
    Tosai
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    16

    Small Particles

    Hi all,
    I have Alot of very small particles, floating about in my 2000 Gallon pond,
    Whats the best way to get rid of these for clear water,
    When i say clear water,
    I can see right down to the bottom, which is 5 foot deep,
    But hate the small particles floating around,As it makes the pond look Mucky,
    Im after any advice on how to stop this,
    Im pump fed,
    Into a 4 off black box filters,
    Containing:
    Filter brushes
    Flocur
    K1
    foam
    Is their anything i can use etc to sort my problem out,
    I have a couple of Airstones in the bottom of my pond,
    My pond bottom has a little muck, but not enough to cause this ???,
    Any advice please
    Thanks in advance
    Mark..

  2. #2
    Oyagoi gcuss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Maple Falls, WA
    Posts
    1,620
    Is your K1 static? Or moving.

    Some will disagree, but I've had great success with fines using (matured) static K1 for fines removal. The key to my water clearing was reducing the backwashing frequency on that one chamber. I used to backwash every other day but since I started backwashing only weekly the film on the K1 seems to catch most of it.

    Very happy with the results.

    Grant

  3. #3
    Honmei
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    2,744
    Mark,
    The key to clear water is understanding why water is clear or not. Sounds simple but in reality it is far more complicated. Their are two basic approaches to clear water (and infinte combinations of both). First, addressing the "creation" side by reducing the amount of solids being produced and second, eliminating solids once they are produced.

    Since you said your pond bottom has "a little muck", let's start there. This is an indicator that the flow dynamics of the pond itself are not adequtely moving solids to filtration for removal. A koi pond should never see any acculmulation of muck on the bottom of the pond. Added currents and or turnover may help to solve this issue. Keep in mind, this "muck" is decaying in your pond and "feeding" the creatyion of further solids. The faster watse products can be moved to filtration, the less nutrients are available for algae reproduction and thus, less solids are being created.

    Flow dynamics (turnover and currents) along with adequate filtration is the true key to not only clear water but also good water.

    Now, the other side of the equation is dealing with the solids once created. Yes, there will always be solids within a pond environment. As stated, reducing the formation of such as indicated above is the first, best step. Then there are the removal of the solids that are created. This is where many people get a tad side tracked. They do not address the formation side but simply choose to address the removal side of the equation. This is where "clear" water can be achieved but, if soley address from this side of the equation, the typicvally becomes a shortfall in achieving "good" water. Typical shortcomings include chemicals such as PP. enzymes or even UV lights and Ozone can, without a doubt clear up a pond but at typically negative trade offs.

    Personally, I have always preferred to address causes verses addressing symptoms. This almost always results in better water quality, longer term improved results and less maintenance.

    Steve
    The views presented are my personal views and not that of any organization that I may belong to unless otherwise specified. [email protected]
    CKHPA

  4. #4
    MCA
    MCA is offline
    Honmei MCA's Avatar
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    Dec 2003
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    Atlanta
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    The next thing you will tell him is.....its a system.

    I guess....'cause it is.

  5. #5
    Honmei
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    2,744
    Quote Originally Posted by MCA View Post
    The next thing you will tell him is.....its a system.

    I guess....'cause it is.

    Shhhhhhhsh. I was saving that one.

    Steve
    The views presented are my personal views and not that of any organization that I may belong to unless otherwise specified. [email protected]
    CKHPA

  6. #6
    Honmei KoiCop's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    3,774
    Hello Mark . . .

    Let's start here:

    A gravity fed bottom drain is the single greatest technological innovation in the entire history of closed, re-circulating ponding. It not only allows for the removal of solids from the pond 24/7 (so they can be easily flushed to waste), but it physically removes filtration from the pond, thereby allowing settlement, mechanical filtration and bio-conversion to be sequentially performed before returning clean, healthy water to the pond.

    Do you have gravity fed bottom drain(s) followed by sequential settlement (or sieve), mechanical filtration and bio-conversion?

    Next, do you flush your settlement daily and your mechanical weekly ?

    Finally, do you perform regular, large water changes (from 10% per week to 10 % per day -- depending)?

    If you haven't answered 'yes' to all three questions, we've got a starting point.

    Best wishes,
    Don Chandler
    Member: AKCA, ZNA, KoiUSA

  7. #7
    Tosai D-man's Avatar
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    Nov 2008
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    Holland, Zwolle region
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    10
    Quote Originally Posted by gcuss View Post
    Is your K1 static? Or moving.

    Some will disagree, but I've had great success with fines using (matured) static K1 for fines removal. The key to my water clearing was reducing the backwashing frequency on that one chamber. I used to backwash every other day but since I started backwashing only weekly the film on the K1 seems to catch most of it.

    Very happy with the results.

    Grant
    allso using static K1 here...it IS a great succes!
    otherwise a skimmer would be an option..

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