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Thread: Filter media crushed or whole?

  1. #1
    Jumbo bighatbulls's Avatar
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    Filter media crushed or whole?

    The ERIC thread on the main board has inspired me to rethink my fall pond (QT tank) build's filter. Like the ERIC it is long and narrow but a complete DIY job. I just don't have the money to spend on alot of Japanese Mat, so I have been looking at alternatives. First off the filter media will be sitting in plastic baskets placed in the filter trough. The trough's dimesions are roughly 1.5X1.5X8.

    One alternative is oyster shell, yet I can't get whole oyster shell in my area. Infact the supplies I have found are ALL in the UK. I can find crushed oyster shell in abundance, within a few blocks from home.

  2. #2
    MCA
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    Honmei MCA's Avatar
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    but the smaller the shell pieces....the more it will trap debris and later cause channeling. So any small pieces should be at the end of the filtration system so that you do the mechanical stages prior to the shells.

    Matala will likely be cheaper than Jmat. There are many knockoffs...but I doubt they work as well.

  3. #3
    Jumbo bighatbulls's Avatar
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    Thanks MCA. I will look into Matala, and I am making a note to keep the small particle stuff towards the end of the run.

  4. #4
    eds
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    Why not convert it to K1? IMVHO a K1 filter is a big step up on matting and brushes anyway as the static section is easier to clean and traps more particles than brushes and the fluidised biological sections don't trap any waste as the media is constantly turning over.

    Assuming it is one long chamber then all you need are some pieces of strong plastic (I used 4mm PVC for my conversion) slotted or drilled to allow the water through. I fitted mine using plastic profiles so the plastic sheets just slot in or pull out for cleaning. Just remember to cover the drain pipes in your filter to prevent the K1 being flushed down the drain!!!

    Are your dimensions in feet or metres? Post a pic or diagram and it'd help with the details of converting it to whatever media you decide.

  5. #5
    Jumbo bighatbulls's Avatar
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    The QT tank will be made out of wood and be above ground. It is 4DX4WX8L. The filter sits on top of the box and is 1DX1.5WX8. All measurements are in feet. I am thinking about using Sterlite Ultra Baskets to hold the media. They are 16X13.5X10 (inches)

    Notice there is not prefilter before the pump on this drawing, and there is no skimmer. We are hoping to not need a skimmer because this pond will be covered with window screens.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Filter media crushed or whole?-untitled-2-.jpg  

  6. #6
    eds
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighatbulls View Post
    The QT tank will be made out of wood and be above ground. It is 4DX4WX8L. The filter sits on top of the box and is 1DX1.5WX8. All measurements are in feet. I am thinking about using Sterlite Ultra Baskets to hold the media. They are 16X13.5X10 (inches)

    Notice there is not prefilter before the pump on this drawing, and there is no skimmer. We are hoping to not need a skimmer because this pond will be covered with window screens.
    Where are the drains for your filter? How do you clean it out?

    I would definitely have a small empty section where the water enters to allow large, heavy waste to settle out, then a static K1 section followed by 3 fluidised sections to keep the K1 from all bunching at the pump end of the filter.

    Your idea will work fine too, just make sure you have a very effective way to remove mechanical waste as you don't want that fouling your biomedia and IME brushes alone won't do that.

  7. #7
    Oyagoi CarolinaGirl's Avatar
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    The problem I see with your design is you are pumping out of the pond from the bottom to feed the filter. The water gravity flows through the filter and back to the pond. If the any of the various stages of the filter ever clog, water returning to the pond will stop and the filter will overflow at that point since the pump is still feeding it.

  8. #8
    Nisai DrCreosote's Avatar
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    Overflow and stuff

    First things first, I've been doing all these measurements in cubits, so now I have to convert to feet. I'm glad someone asked or I would have never known. I probably need a new tape measure that works in feet.

    Next, her drawing did not include the standpipe that is part of the ERIC designs. I plan to copy that system as closely as possible so that cleaning and maintenance are easy operations. That should provide the necessary protection in the event of a filter clog, however, as this entire unit will be mounted directly above the pond, it will simply overflow the unit and drain directly into the pond itself.

    is it really a pond? I keep wanting to call it a tank. Ah well, no matter. It is only a name.

  9. #9
    Jumbo bighatbulls's Avatar
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    Ah, good Doc chimed in. Doc wil be building the pond and the filter trough. He is the one that takes my rough idea and makes them work.

  10. #10
    Jumbo
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    Oh Goodness!

    The pump is before the filter.
    The filter is above the water level of the tank.
    The tank is made of wood. and what else?
    You have five! baskets!
    The waterfall is for what?

    You will learn a lot.

    After I was in the hobby about three years, learning here and at koi.cymru and at koi.com.my, I built a six tank parallel configuration (6x150g) with bottom drains to bag filters to elevated wooden raceway and skimmers to carbon filter to shower. I had more money then. And lower expectations.

    That system which totaled about 1200g, and worked great, cost about as much as my 30000g liner pond that I have now. But this is Florida and that was Michigan. Big difference. It matters a lot where you live.

    If you have earthquakes in Reedly, (I dunno nuttin bout Reedly), maybe wood is good. (If you're a carpenter like me. ((or a good one maybe )) ) If you have a 15 x 20 liner laying around. And one for the filter. Or if you want to become a Sani-Tred expert. (IF you can afford Sani-Tred). And you want to have the tank inside, or your weather is always 70F, or you don't mind leaving it "fallow" for the worst of the year's weather.

    You will learn a lot. But much more could be learned by reading before you start. And shipping is less.

    You could go and be horribly nice to the closest restaurant that sells oysters and you can get plenty of their shells for free/cheap. But why? Something wrong with your water's hardness?

    I see that you have a perfect opportunity to learn digging, plumbing, concrete block, aeration, aerated media and air lift driven water flow all at the same time. Small scale. And probably cheaper than the cheap way. If nothing else, you would end up with a workable QT. Not something to throw away in the night...under cover of darkness...head hung low..... You'd have flexible media choices, but maybe start with K1. Real predator control, not window screens. Depth and earth tempered water temps that could lead to a stable small volume pond.

    Are you old and feeble? Join the club. Start digging. Some people here can comfortably afford to have someone else build them a pond. ALL the others dig. I can teach you to cheat though. Shhh. Hire a backhoe.

    WAY too much typing.

    HI!
    Mickey the windowman, the world is a very big place.

    Aquitori says Keokoi says "even sun shines on dogs ass..." so I say... Buy Ugly Early.

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