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Thread: Pond Design

  1. #11
    Meg
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    Oyagoi Meg's Avatar
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    and as a foot note I would suggest going 2 feet deeper if this is a koi pond.
    as mike holmes says .....

    here a great outline of the whats and whys from the Atlanta Koi Club
    http://www.atlantakoiclub.org/calend...ilteration.pdf

  2. #12
    Sansai jimfish98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meg View Post
    yes, and I would hope he has plans on how to clean out this filter as matainance and ease there of will determine long term how well this works.
    The water would flow into the trough from the bottom and flow up through layers of baskets that i would make from wire screens much like what is used in masonary reinforcment. I would layer them up so i can remove media one layer at a time. The top layer with the plants and gravel will be trickier as i would have to find a tighter mesh to prevent the stone from traveling down. I may have damage to roots removing that layer, but my hope is not have to do it too often and to try and keep more seasonal plants in there so it would be ok to have to change them up on occasion.

  3. #13
    Sansai jimfish98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meg View Post
    and as a foot note I would suggest going 2 feet deeper if this is a koi pond.
    as mike holmes says .....

    here a great outline of the whats and whys from the Atlanta Koi Club
    http://www.atlantakoiclub.org/calend...ilteration.pdf

    Deeper would be better, but lower then 4ft without going concrete in FL creates some possible water table issues with construction. This is a side yard bigginer pond. I have advised my wife that since she doesn't swim that once the kids are out, if the hobby continues i am reserving the right to convert the 18k gallon pool to a pond, lol.

  4. #14
    Meg
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    go two feet up and make a raised pond....makes the koi safer from the ol blue heron too

  5. #15
    Meg
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimfish98 View Post
    The water would flow into the trough from the bottom and flow up through layers of baskets that i would make from wire screens much like what is used in masonary reinforcment. I would layer them up so i can remove media one layer at a time. The top layer with the plants and gravel will be trickier as i would have to find a tighter mesh to prevent the stone from traveling down. I may have damage to roots removing that layer, but my hope is not have to do it too often and to try and keep more seasonal plants in there so it would be ok to have to change them up on occasion.
    sounds good on paper but you are making a nightmare. a filter has to be able to be cleaned regular, not just on occasion. you have to get the gunk out of the water colum.
    a better plan would be to make that one long trough and slope the bottom deeper where the water enter and shallower on the exit end. use this as your settling chamber. put a drain in the deeper end and just flush it clean weekly. add your bio filters after the trough. then pump from bio back to the pond

  6. #16
    Tosai Snake's Avatar
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    "Ditto" Meg

  7. #17
    WAC
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    Despite the pump size, you'll want to make sure the flow rate thru your UV & filter(s) will be within the flow parameters. Not all filters can accept the full flow and/or full pressure.

    In which case, it may make sense to create a valved diverter for potential bypass.

    A lot will depend on the design of your filter or the manufacturer's specifications.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pond Design-diverter-04.02.11.jpg  

  8. #18
    Sansai jimfish98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WAC View Post
    Despite the pump size, you'll want to make sure the flow rate thru your UV & filter(s) will be within the flow parameters. Not all filters can accept the full flow and/or full pressure.

    In which case, it may make sense to create a valved diverter for potential bypass.

    A lot will depend on the design of your filter or the manufacturer's specifications.

    I was planning something similar to that but i would include a flow meter to make sure the volume to the UV didn't exceed specifications.

  9. #19
    WAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimfish98 View Post
    I was planning something similar to that but i would include a flow meter to make sure the volume to the UV didn't exceed specifications.
    Sounds great! I don't think a flow meter is necessary but a nice perk. Depending on the style of flow meter you're looking at, some require a certain length of pipe run prior/after in order to insure that turbulence doesn't affect inaccurate readings.

  10. #20
    Honmei ricshaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WAC View Post
    Despite the pump size, you'll want to make sure the flow rate thru your UV & filter(s) will be within the flow parameters. Not all filters can accept the full flow and/or full pressure.
    In which case, it may make sense to create a valved diverter for potential bypass.
    A lot will depend on the design of your filter or the manufacturer's specifications.
    Jandy valves are cool.

    With a quick turn of the valve handle you can divert 20%, 30%, 50%, 70%, etc. of the water.

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