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Thread: New pond and absolutely no idea what to do...

  1. #21
    Nisai
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarolinaGirl View Post
    Forget about using the gasket that comes with it. Get yourself a tube of PL polyurathane roofing sealant. It's black and comes in a yellow caulk tube. Apply a good amount of that sealant on the flange in place of the gasket. It won't leak and it's safe for fish. I use it all the time.
    This is what I'm looking for?

    PL® Polyurethane Roof & Flashing Sealant (1402254) - Roof / Foundation Coatings - Ace Hardware

  2. #22
    Oyagoi CarolinaGirl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon View Post
    Yep! Sorry...thought the tube was more yellow than that. But that's it. Clean it off of your hands and other things with rubbing alcohol.

  3. #23
    Jumbo bighatbulls's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon View Post
    I've watched this video, along with many others. I have several questions.

    It seems several filters have the inlet at the bottom, and others have it at the top. Some, the inlet and outlet are both in the middle. It seems it would be easiest to pour water in the top and let it come out the bottom.
    There are different set ups for the return, we based the design on another bio filter we found on youtube (mentioned in the credits at the end of the clip) that used the standpipe design. One thing you might want to be aware of is that if you choose to use a bottom return to the pond is that that return down't get clogged or blocked by the media you choose to use. With the standpipe design you don't have that problem.

    I've read several posts not to pump dirty water , as this allows the particles to become even smaller. If this is the case, how do you get the water to the filter. I must be missing something. Can you tell I'm new to this whole idea?[/QUOTE]

    How this filter is currently set up I have a tetra vac drain that leads to a debri catcher then it goes to the pump. After the pump it runs through the UV filter then the main bio filter.
    An even better way is to have everything gravity fed. You have the start with the shower drain CG suggested you get. (see clip on the theory of Gravity)

    YouTube - The Theory of Gravity Fed


    Now after your pond you should have something that can remove the solids from the water. Alot of people swear a vortex chamber is the way to go. On my goldfish pond I am using a 5 gallon bucket. I built a fiberglass cone in the bottom of it, and used a 1 1/2 inch drain (I will post pictures of this in another reply.) The water from the pond will enter the bucket at mid level. There will be a modified elbow on the end of the pipe in the bucket to help direct water flow. Another pipe will be attatched just below the bucket "lip" or at the top of the bucket. I plan on using an elbow on the end of this pipe pointing up. Idealy this will sit just below the surface of the water. We are going to plumb the bottom drain of the chamber to a valve going to a pipe that will run under the near by flower bed. Hopefully the solids will sink to the bottom to be released into the garden, and the "clean" water will go on to the filter.
    Amanda Bulls-Stephens
    Creator of "The Tail End"
    Central California Koi Society

  4. #24
    Nisai
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    Drilled hole for 2" pvc shower drain.



    bought bulkhead fitting for side drain and two ball valves, one for each drain.






  5. #25
    Nisai
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    I'm still confused on how, where, and why to plumb the pump, filter and return. I can't seem to wrap my brain around it.

    My thought process was to use a trash can with filter media at the top, bio balls in the middle, and empty space at the bottom. The water would enter the top, exit the bottom, and return to the tank.

    How do I get the water from point A to point B and back again? With a 300 gallon tank, how large or small of a pump do I need to accomplish this?

  6. #26
    Jumbo bighatbulls's Avatar
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    2 things, probably with a pond that size you might want to have the water turn over (go through the filter) at least one time an hour. Next, are you pushing water up to the filter or waterfall? Or is everything mostly level? You can get say like a 600 gph pump and plumb it to a ball valve. by adjusting the valve you can adjust the water to run faster or slower.

    You could put your trash can filter in the ground roughly level with the tank. Figure out where the tank's water line would be on the trash can then run your bottom drain pipe from the tank to the trash can any where below the water line. Gravity should push water into the filter until both water lines are the same level. I think I would use a bottom drain on the filter. If that is just to much digging for you you can opt for the standpipe design like the one in the video of my DIY filter. Your return should cause the water to crash into the pond. This will add ambience to your yard, and also add much needed oxygen to the pond's water. The pump in this set up should be after the filter. Something you have not mentioned, and I am not sure if we mentioned either is are you going to use a UV light? This is going to cut down on algae growth in the pond without adding alot of chemicals. If you use a UV light it can go after the pump. The pump should be placed below the water level of the filter out side of the pond and filter. You will not have to worry about priming the pump if you do this.

  7. #27
    Honmei ricshaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighatbulls View Post
    Alot of people swear a vortex chamber is the way to go. On my goldfish pond I am using a 5 gallon bucket. I built a fiberglass cone in the bottom of it, and used a 1 1/2 inch drain (I will post pictures of this in another reply.) The water from the pond will enter the bucket at mid level. There will be a modified elbow on the end of the pipe in the bucket to help direct water flow. Another pipe will be attatched just below the bucket "lip" or at the top of the bucket. I plan on using an elbow on the end of this pipe pointing up. Idealy this will sit just below the surface of the water. We are going to plumb the bottom drain of the chamber to a valve going to a pipe that will run under the near by flower bed. Hopefully the solids will sink to the bottom to be released into the garden, and the "clean" water will go on to the filter.
    Is a 5 gallon bucket big enough to allow solids to settle?

    I would think you would need at least a 55 gallon barrel to make a small vortex settling filter.

    See:
    "Vortex chambers should be as large as possible. I recommend at least 48 inches in diameter by 66 inches deep with a conical shaped bottom"

    DIY barrel settling tank.

  8. #28
    Oyagoi CarolinaGirl's Avatar
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    A 5 gallon settling tank is not nearly enough. And honestly since this is NOT a koi pond, a settling tank is overkill. This is a small, 300 gallon water garden with a few goldies. Nothing fancy in the way of filtration is needed! A 55 gallon barrel with bird netting for mechanical/bio is plenty, as long as it can be cleaned once a month or so. I have this exact same set-up on my quarantine tank and it's often WAY overstocked with koi. So this simple barrel filter set up will work just fine.

    Here's two sketches. One shows a gravity flow set-up where the water level in the barrel is the same as the water level in the pond. Water flows into the barrel, down through bio-media and is pumped back to the pond using a submersible pump that's located in the bottom of the barrel. The bottom clean out line also plumbs up into the 3" gravity flow line for added bottom cleaning. This is how my QT is plumbed.

    The secone one is even easier, with the pump and pre-filter sitting in the bottom of the pond and sending the water to the bottom of the filter so it up-flows through media and gravity flows back to the pond by way of a waterfall or even just a pipe. This is how a skippy filter works.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New pond and absolutely no idea what to do...-filterdownflow.jpg   New pond and absolutely no idea what to do...-filterupflow.jpg  

  9. #29
    Nisai
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarolinaGirl View Post
    ...Here's two sketches. One shows a gravity flow set-up where the water level in the barrel is the same as the water level in the pond. Water flows into the barrel, down through bio-media and is pumped back to the pond using a submersible pump that's located in the bottom of the barrel. The bottom clean out line also plumbs up into the 3" gravity flow line for added bottom cleaning. This is how my QT is plumbed.

    The secone one is even easier, with the pump and pre-filter sitting in the bottom of the pond and sending the water to the bottom of the filter so it up-flows through media and gravity flows back to the pond by way of a waterfall or even just a pipe. This is how a skippy filter works.
    I was planning on using a 20 or 22 gallon trash can.

    Rubbermaid® Brute® 20 Gallon Commercial Trash Container (262000GRAY) - 6 Pack - Outdoor Trash Cans, Lids & Carts - Ace Hardware

    So I need gravity to feed the filter, then use a pump to return the filtered water to the tank.

    I was not planning on running a UV light at this time. I thought I would add one later if necessary.




    How does this design look? (Please forgive the lack or artistic ability.)

  10. #30
    Nisai
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    Here is a newbie question, I can fill this tank with tap water?

    If so, what should I use to treat the water for chlorine/chloramine?

    Lastly, how long before I can add plants to the equation? I'm assuming fish need to come later.

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