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Thread: Home built filters

  1. #1
    Oyagoi gcuss's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
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    Maple Falls, WA
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    Home built filters

    Hi,

    I was asked on another thread for some explanation. And like all things DIY, they're a little confusing to everyone but the guy with the saw in hand.

    However... I'll do my best.

    Basically I got a hold of some 275 gallon totes used for shipping an anti fungal liquid used in cattle feed. There are lots out there (totes) but I was looking for something FDA approved to limit the amount of toxins that may have leeched into the plastic. Regardless, I pressure washed/bleached/pressure washed again until they were odorless and clean just to be safe.

    My idea was to have a moving bed followed by a static bed to capture fines and sloughed bacteria from the moving bed. I have an 8' raceway prior to filtration that keeps most solids out of the filters.

    As always when using K1 for DIY... it's a real bugger to keep it in the container you want it in. And it's a nightmare to clean up which I discovered a few times during my learning curve when back washing.

    So the water comes in from a 5300 GPH pump through a 2" elbow on the moving bed that swirls the water for even distribution throughout the tote. I built a little air grid from 1/2" PVC and drilled tons of little holes through so it would bubble. Just above the air grid I put in a stainless steel screen to keep the K1 from getting into the bottom 6" of the tank so I could drain the moving bed as needed without dumping the K1 down the drain. From there I sorta copied the EAzy Pod by building a stainless steel screen cylindar that went around a 4" elbow that would feed the static chamber.

    The static chamber has a 4" elbow again to keep the water swirling and I suspended a garbage can with a 4" pipe through the bottom of it that feeds back to the pond via a waterfall. I also built an air "square" in the bottom of the garbage can and piped it out and connected to the air grid line from the moving bed with a valve for back washing.

    The one little pic of my level in two pieces was after building the air grid and having it all glued... I noticed my level on the bottom of the tote. No angle would get it out for me so I hack sawed it out and took a picture for nostalgia.

    All in all, it's worked really well and the cleaning is a breeze. Total costs for both filters including all the fittings, the stainless steel screen, the totes and PVC was less than 300 dollars. Can't beat that price for something that works very well.

    Hopefully that makes sense, here's some pics. The names of the pictures should hint at their purpose.

    Grant
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Home built filters-starting.jpg   Home built filters-cut-open.jpg   Home built filters-moving-bed-overview.jpg   Home built filters-air-line-manifold-moving-bed.jpg   Home built filters-grid-moving-bed.jpg  

    Home built filters-moving-bed-discharge-static.jpg   Home built filters-static-drain-intake-discharge.jpg   Home built filters-static-k1-.jpg   Home built filters-static-k1-assembly.jpg   Home built filters-img_1029.jpg  

    Home built filters-whoops.jpg  

  2. #2
    Honmei ricshaw's Avatar
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    Mar 2010
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    Southern California
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcuss View Post
    Hi,

    I was asked on another thread for some explanation. And like all things DIY, they're a little confusing to everyone but the guy with the saw in hand.

    However... I'll do my best.

    Basically I got a hold of some 275 gallon totes used for shipping an anti fungal liquid used in cattle feed. There are lots out there (totes) but I was looking for something FDA approved to limit the amount of toxins that may have leeched into the plastic. Regardless, I pressure washed/bleached/pressure washed again until they were odorless and clean just to be safe.

    My idea was to have a moving bed followed by a static bed to capture fines and sloughed bacteria from the moving bed. I have an 8' raceway prior to filtration that keeps most solids out of the filters.

    As always when using K1 for DIY... it's a real bugger to keep it in the container you want it in. And it's a nightmare to clean up which I discovered a few times during my learning curve when back washing.

    So the water comes in from a 5300 GPH pump through a 2" elbow on the moving bed that swirls the water for even distribution throughout the tote. I built a little air grid from 1/2" PVC and drilled tons of little holes through so it would bubble. Just above the air grid I put in a stainless steel screen to keep the K1 from getting into the bottom 6" of the tank so I could drain the moving bed as needed without dumping the K1 down the drain. From there I sorta copied the EAzy Pod by building a stainless steel screen cylindar that went around a 4" elbow that would feed the static chamber.

    The static chamber has a 4" elbow again to keep the water swirling and I suspended a garbage can with a 4" pipe through the bottom of it that feeds back to the pond via a waterfall. I also built an air "square" in the bottom of the garbage can and piped it out and connected to the air grid line from the moving bed with a valve for back washing.

    The one little pic of my level in two pieces was after building the air grid and having it all glued... I noticed my level on the bottom of the tote. No angle would get it out for me so I hack sawed it out and took a picture for nostalgia.

    All in all, it's worked really well and the cleaning is a breeze. Total costs for both filters including all the fittings, the stainless steel screen, the totes and PVC was less than 300 dollars. Can't beat that price for something that works very well.

    Hopefully that makes sense, here's some pics. The names of the pictures should hint at their purpose.

    Grant
    Thanks! I think that answers my questions.

    Great find on the 275 gallon totes!

  3. #3
    Sansai
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Utah, USA
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    Grant? Did those tiny little holes work in that garbage can? or did you have to drill them bigger? I guess my concern with this is them little holes getting clogged with algae and other great clogging materials?
    Sorry for trying to copy your design, But looks like a good one!!!

    -mike

  4. #4
    Oyagoi gcuss's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
    Location
    Maple Falls, WA
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    Hey Mike,

    Yeah, they gave me problems. Garbage Can Filter 2.0 had me with a dremel cutting slots vertically about every 3/4". I used a little roto-zip kind of bit and cut 1/8" slots into it from top to bottom. About every 12" or so I would lift the bit out, leave a little material and then start again to try and help strengthen it up. I'm not sure if that makes total sense... I'll try again... I plunged the bit into the garbage can near the top, drew the bit down in a straight line towards the bottom, after about 12" or so, I lift the bit out, skip the next 1/2" and then plunge again repeating till I got near the bottom of the can. This left little connecting bits of garbage can to try and keep it from flopping around. I also staggered the connecting gaps to again add some structure.

    If I were to do it again I'd space out the slots a bit more to maintain a bit more strength. Probably about 1 1/2" between slots.

    Hope that helps,

    Grant
    Last edited by gcuss; 07-29-2011 at 03:39 AM.

  5. #5
    Sansai
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Utah, USA
    Posts
    242
    Thanks Grant!!!
    I don't have a rotary or drummel type tool. Maybe I'll just try to drill (pencil size) holes every where! I bought a rubbermaid garbage can to try to mimic your build! it will be going in a 200 gallon vertical poly tank which I plan to hook dirrectly to my bottom drain. With a knife valve inbetween the two of course. Thanks again my friend!

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