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Thread: Humor Me with Your Thoughts on This Series of Screen Filters to Manage Fines

  1. #11
    Oyagoi yerrag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCA View Post
    My $0.02:

    I changed from static K1 in Nexus, to Cetus to US3. IMHO, sieves deliver more uniform, predictable mechanical filtration to a smaller particle size. Sieves are basically self clean where static barrios, like K1 or a traditional screen, are not. With a barrier, the resistance to flow increases over time. With a sieve the captured particles slide dow the parabolic curve and out of the area where the water continues to flow unimpeded. I will take a sieve over a static barrier any day. But a static barrier beats the heck out of letting unfiltered water dump detritus on the media where you are trying to grow conversion bacteria.
    I prefer sieve as well, but it just seems to me tough to retrofit into my chamber. A criel sieve, also called a reverse sieve looks easy enough, except for procuring the wedge wire screen. So I had to just think of using a regular ss screen. And yes, better with some kind of barrier than without to keep biofilters as free as possible from being fouled up.
    ps barrios? I know you meant barriers I changed my spell checker after it decided to change Christ to Christmas :-)

  2. #12
    Oyagoi yerrag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtsklar View Post
    This thread does get to the heart of the matter. Mechanical filtering is not as easy as one may think.

    Yerrag I think the finest you could go would be 100 micron, assuming you have several other screens in front of it.
    You think so? This makes my day Matt. I'll give that a try.

  3. #13
    Oyagoi yerrag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by creekds View Post
    The reason for two 1000 micron screens, was because AES sent me 2 1/2 times what I ordered.(end of roll) So I decided to cut up the white barrel which was the support of the screen system, and line it with 1000 micron screen....more is better ??
    The Zakki takes about thirty seconds to clean.

    Also had this design that I did not build. But it could be cleaned with a hose, removing each section as they are cleaned pushing the waste down into the waste line.
    The two 1000-micron screens is a good idea, in that when you pull out the first screen for cleaning, the second one catches the muck released out of pulling the first screen. When the muck settles down, you later move the second screen to where the first was, and the cleaned screen is put to where the second screen was.

    Currently, I have the inlets of three 4-inch transfer pipes (from brush to jap mat bio chamber) covered like a sock filter would with 1000-micron mosquito netting. This is about 38 square inches of filter and would require daily removal and replacement with a cleaned set. If I made a 24 inch square, or 576 inĀ² of such a filter in my chamber, it would require cleaning every 15 days, or every two weeks. How often do you think the next filter stage of 500 microns would require? And how often for the 250 micron stage? I'm guessing that the 500 micron stage would require cleaning every week, the 250 micron stage twice a week, and if there is a 100 micron stage it's everyday.

    If it stands to follow that a weekly cleaning is what's preferred, then I might just stop at a fines filter of 500 microns. But I would have two 1000-micron filters and two 500-micron filters (in all 4 barriers) so that I can pull out a filter screen without allowing the muck released in the pullout from getting past, since there is an equivalent-sized filter on the next stage to catch what escapes. It is always the 1st 1000-micron stage that is filled up with muck, and the 2nd 1000-micron stage being much cleaner (as it doesn't gets used much), doesn't release much muck when it is pulled up and moved to where the first 1000-micron was. Of course, after cleaning, the first 1000-micron filter gets moved to where the second 1000-micron filter was. Same process goes for the two sets of 500-micron filter stages.

    This design would also dispense with the need to drain the chamber and to pressure-spray clean the filter and drain the muck to a waste outlet. But since I would be pulling out each filter every so often, the design of the filter assembly needs to be sturdy. I figure some kind of clip spring mechanism should be in place to make pull-in and pull-out easy.

    Creekds, your design with slanted screen adds a lot of surface area, I should try to incorporate that into my filter.

    I suppose if I stop at 500 microns, it isn't the end of the world but it means I should still periodically clean my Japanese mattings, although at a longer interval than what I used to.

    Then again, where do all these fines come from? Do fish poop fines? Or did these fines eventually come about as the poop breaks down? So what if you keep poop from breaking down by removing them before they reach the point of breakdown? That would be grist for another thread.

    p.s. I dispensed with draining also because I found it much easier to siphon off the poop/fines settling into the chamber bottom.

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