New Koi pond being built - Page 2 - Koi Forum - Koi-Bito Magazine

kingkong · 09-17-2005

I was at the supply store talking construction stuff, a brick costs 1.15 and a cement block was 1.85 or so, wow.You got me on that groove design. The only thing I can imagine it would be if rebar was to be put in cells, it would tend to indicate and center the steel in the cores. Start high and work down on ramp bottom, should be no problem with special concrete mix being pumped. Look into a product called Thoroseal for waterproofing your inside shell. I like the kidney bean shape. Good luck

dunkel · 09-18-2005

Redhotkoi,

There are 3 types of flexlines, white, black, & brown. I suggest that you go with the brown. It is more expensive, however it is a little more rigid. It is a heavier schedule, and there is a special primer and glue that you need to use for that pipe.

All penetrations into the pond should be rigid schedule 40. Good looking pond. You may want to contact Kirin Koi. You have the ideal situation for polyurea. I believe he is in your area.

Jeff Dunkel
Aquatic Coatings

redhotkoi · 09-19-2005

Jeff

I thought the color of the flex PVC were just color and not didifferen type. I am further along than the pictures show. I am using black flex I pepenetrated the wall with black flex which would mean less joint in the ground. I would love to coat my pond with polyurea but budget would be a problem. A liner will be installed. Reason is cost, a lot cheaper.

Rick & Kingkong

Are you talking about the end block? When you buy 8" x 8" x 16" block you get 2 kind on blocks. Blocks that goes in the middle of the run that has recess on both side and end block which is flat and smooth on on side and a vertical slot on the other side. I am also using knock-out bond beam on the top course to create a solid ring abound the top with rebar. Just take a hammer and hit between the slot and it will break right off.

Rick

Pumping is the way to do any concrete work. I have a truck cooming oncomingday i will take some pictures. The concistencconsistencyly a little wetter but not alot. The concrete mix is 1/2" gravel instead of 3/4" plus their is alot less gravel. I don't think you will have any problem with doing you floor. I will ask the pumper guy to see what he thinks. Do to the location of the pond access is hard since it is in the back of a small yard that has a 8' rise. No way get truck back their plus wheal barrow would be a killer. Buy bag concrete a HomeDepot for $3.10 a bad would save $150 plus the hours and back pain to do it. Buying loose gravel and sand and portland cement would be cheaper. but would have to wheel barrow 10 ton plus of material. I have 7 yard of concrete coming and a trailer pump. To fill the block and the concrete floor in the filter pit. Rick look for a trailer pump it is alot cheaper than the big boom truck that does 150 yard and hour. You don't need that much power.

keokoi · 09-19-2005

RHK, I understand about the liner. The nice thing is you can always go polyurea with that block pond.. I wanna do Polyuera with my pond.. I did liner because of expenses as well. I sunk the majority of my money in my filters plumbing.

Nice job!

Joe

Ryan S. · 09-20-2005

I would be thinking about pouring a bottom then using some type of motor product over the top of the block. I've applyed SureWall (for other uses), very easy to apply and cheap. Then seal with a concrete sealer or use many of the waterproofing or pool paints. If it works for pools?

Flex PVC, black, white, or beige are all the same except color, the plumbing codes call for certain color based on applications. At least that is what is published from the one manufactor of flex pvc.

dunkel · 09-20-2005

Redhotkoi,

I prefer using brown, but black will be ok too. I will be at the distributors tommorow morning.

As Ryan S. had mentioned......based on applications, (key word) white pvc flexline is spa hose,

Labes states: Warning: not termite resistant. Not for underground use!!
Did they misprint the label Ryan? Maybe I'm all screwed up???

I will try to grab a copy to post on this thread......

Motor Product????? What is that? I am new to that application....

Jeff

mulberryjen · 09-20-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by dunkel

Motor Product????? What is that? I am new to that application....

Jeff

I'm thinking he meant "mortar", but don't know.

dunkel · 09-20-2005

LMAO!!!!

Thanks for the enlightment....

Sorry, may want to apologize for that one.....

Jeff

Ryan S. · 09-20-2005

"mortar" of course.

All flex is the same from what I know. It will be interesting hearing the response from your distributor. Of course maybe some manufactors may be different, as long as each meets or exceeds specs it should not matter, but it appears most flex PVC is all equal except for color. In building codes black is for irrigation and pools, so using white or beige for indoor use would probably be wise if it needs to pass inspection. It does not appear that any color is termite proof, they can eat through it, but are not attracted to it.

Ryan S.

kingkong · 09-20-2005

I keep hearing how expensive a poly system is but I would love to know. Dunkel, roughly how much are we talking here for this job for example? I will guess the square feet at 15x10x5= 750 squares. Does poly adhere tightly to PVC or do you have to manage this in a special way? Thanks

09-19-2005	#13 (permalink)
redhotkoi Tosai Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 45	Thanks for all the reply Jeff I thought the color of the flex PVC were just color and not didifferen type. I am further along than the pictures show. I am using black flex I pepenetrated the wall with black flex which would mean less joint in the ground. I would love to coat my pond with polyurea but budget would be a problem. A liner will be installed. Reason is cost, a lot cheaper. Rick & Kingkong Are you talking about the end block? When you buy 8" x 8" x 16" block you get 2 kind on blocks. Blocks that goes in the middle of the run that has recess on both side and end block which is flat and smooth on on side and a vertical slot on the other side. I am also using knock-out bond beam on the top course to create a solid ring abound the top with rebar. Just take a hammer and hit between the slot and it will break right off. Rick Pumping is the way to do any concrete work. I have a truck cooming oncomingday i will take some pictures. The concistencconsistencyly a little wetter but not alot. The concrete mix is 1/2" gravel instead of 3/4" plus their is alot less gravel. I don't think you will have any problem with doing you floor. I will ask the pumper guy to see what he thinks. Do to the location of the pond access is hard since it is in the back of a small yard that has a 8' rise. No way get truck back their plus wheal barrow would be a killer. Buy bag concrete a HomeDepot for $3.10 a bad would save $150 plus the hours and back pain to do it. Buying loose gravel and sand and portland cement would be cheaper. but would have to wheel barrow 10 ton plus of material. I have 7 yard of concrete coming and a trailer pump. To fill the block and the concrete floor in the filter pit. Rick look for a trailer pump it is alot cheaper than the big boom truck that does 150 yard and hour. You don't need that much power. Attached Thumbnails

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09-17-2005	#11 (permalink)
kingkong Jumbo Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 946	I was at the supply store talking construction stuff, a brick costs 1.15 and a cement block was 1.85 or so, wow.You got me on that groove design. The only thing I can imagine it would be if rebar was to be put in cells, it would tend to indicate and center the steel in the cores. Start high and work down on ramp bottom, should be no problem with special concrete mix being pumped. Look into a product called Thoroseal for waterproofing your inside shell. I like the kidney bean shape. Good luck

09-18-2005	#12 (permalink)
dunkel Tosai Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 33	Redhotkoi, There are 3 types of flexlines, white, black, & brown. I suggest that you go with the brown. It is more expensive, however it is a little more rigid. It is a heavier schedule, and there is a special primer and glue that you need to use for that pipe. All penetrations into the pond should be rigid schedule 40. Good looking pond. You may want to contact Kirin Koi. You have the ideal situation for polyurea. I believe he is in your area. Jeff Dunkel Aquatic Coatings

09-19-2005	#14 (permalink)
keokoi Honmei Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 2,684	RHK, I understand about the liner. The nice thing is you can always go polyurea with that block pond.. I wanna do Polyuera with my pond.. I did liner because of expenses as well. I sunk the majority of my money in my filters plumbing. Nice job! Joe

09-20-2005	#15 (permalink)
Ryan S. Sansai Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: NC Posts: 252	I would be thinking about pouring a bottom then using some type of motor product over the top of the block. I've applyed SureWall (for other uses), very easy to apply and cheap. Then seal with a concrete sealer or use many of the waterproofing or pool paints. If it works for pools? Flex PVC, black, white, or beige are all the same except color, the plumbing codes call for certain color based on applications. At least that is what is published from the one manufactor of flex pvc.

09-20-2005	#16 (permalink)
dunkel Tosai Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 33	Redhotkoi, I prefer using brown, but black will be ok too. I will be at the distributors tommorow morning. As Ryan S. had mentioned......based on applications, (key word) white pvc flexline is spa hose, Labes states: Warning: not termite resistant. Not for underground use!! Did they misprint the label Ryan? Maybe I'm all screwed up??? I will try to grab a copy to post on this thread...... Motor Product????? What is that? I am new to that application.... Jeff

09-20-2005	#18 (permalink)
dunkel Tosai Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 33	LMAO!!!! Thanks for the enlightment.... Sorry, may want to apologize for that one..... Jeff

09-20-2005	#19 (permalink)
Ryan S. Sansai Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: NC Posts: 252	"mortar" of course. All flex is the same from what I know. It will be interesting hearing the response from your distributor. Of course maybe some manufactors may be different, as long as each meets or exceeds specs it should not matter, but it appears most flex PVC is all equal except for color. In building codes black is for irrigation and pools, so using white or beige for indoor use would probably be wise if it needs to pass inspection. It does not appear that any color is termite proof, they can eat through it, but are not attracted to it. Ryan S.

09-20-2005	#20 (permalink)
kingkong Jumbo Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 946	I keep hearing how expensive a poly system is but I would love to know. Dunkel, roughly how much are we talking here for this job for example? I will guess the square feet at 15x10x5= 750 squares. Does poly adhere tightly to PVC or do you have to manage this in a special way? Thanks