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Thread: a quick question on cement block ponds.

  1. #1
    Honmei Brutuscz's Avatar
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    a quick question on cement block ponds.

    If your going to build a pond with cement blocks, and the water will come into contact with the blocks, how do you treat them? My water is very soft..and I want to have cement blocks in contact with the water. What can I do to cure the blocks..so no ph problems? ...or do I need to do anything at all? Thanks for the help.

  2. #2
    Guest Nancy M.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brutuscz View Post
    If your going to build a pond with cement blocks, and the water will come into contact with the blocks, how do you treat them? My water is very soft..and I want to have cement blocks in contact with the water. What can I do to cure the blocks..so no ph problems? ...or do I need to do anything at all? Thanks for the help.
    You need to seal those blocks, you need to put a scratch coat, also need to use a water sealer. I would still put a plaster coat also. You can put a rubberized paint after that, it helps to seal in the alkalinity, but you still need to check ph and make sure it is stable.

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    Jumbo jnorth's Avatar
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    There was a thread recently that discussed this and it was suggested that you put acid in the pond several times and do many many water changes before putting koi in.
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    Daihonmei MikeM's Avatar
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    Blocks provide a stable structure for a coating. Water will go right through uncoated block. Think of it as a liner pond with a paint/spray on liner.

  5. #5
    Honmei Brutuscz's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice everyone. While it is still winter..I want to make some plans for what I might do when spring arrives.

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    Honmei Brutuscz's Avatar
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    Since we have so many great pond people ..let me show you my problem. In the first 2 pics..you can see the blocks are not very level..and the liner shows for about 8 inches. In the next two..you can see I place a beige vinyl liner around that whole section to cover the black liner. What I want to do is 1)level the pond better. Hard to do because I cannot pour concrete. The blocks are on the ground with rebar to hold them in place. The water will only be filled to 1 -8inch block height...not to the top of 2 blocks. (cannot pour concrete because a permit is required. No permit required to build a pond..but the concrete is a no no.)
    2) hide the liner better...maybe some kind of logs or bamboo on the inside instead of my vinyl liner covering. This has really been the thorn in my side. I really need help with this!!!!
    3) plant around the pond, rocks, stepping stones...mulch, etc. To soften the edges.
    I had to build very quickly because I was moving (suddenly)...and if it wasn't ready...I was going to have to leave all my koi at the previous house. So the job was quick..and kinda clunky looking. It is functional and fine...but not too pretty to look at yet.
    HELP!!!!!


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  7. #7
    Oyagoi Eugeneg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brutuscz View Post
    If your going to build a pond with cement blocks, and the water will come into contact with the blocks, how do you treat them? My water is very soft..and I want to have cement blocks in contact with the water. What can I do to cure the blocks..so no ph problems? ...or do I need to do anything at all? Thanks for the help.
    You have not finished as the best way to finish this eye sore is to get a deviation from the planning board and pour a cemment colar on top of the block . I made mine with a step much like a curb then cemmented stones on top . This way it endeded up pleasing to the eye . Surley swimming pools are instaled in your area they have to use some cement . At the same time I would get rid of those right angle corners . May be you could parge seal pour a base and make a cemment pond .
    If you go to www.countrysidekoi.com then to Articles then Building an Indoor pond . You will see what I did .
    Regards
    Eugene

  8. #8
    Honmei Brutuscz's Avatar
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    Well...it's currently a black liner epdm pond. I like epdm and the effect is has on sumi...so I would like to keep that. The problem with pouring cement is the permits involved. My town requires no permit to build a fish pond...but to pour cement and make a permanent structure...you need a permit. I have dealt with the town before for permits...and they are a major pain in the a$$. So, without pouring concrete...what can I do to fix this pond. Hide the liner..and make it more pleasing to the eye?

  9. #9
    Jumbo
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    Ok Doc.

    Can you get slag stone? Maybe called paver base or something else in your area? The material paver contractors would use as the base for their interlocking paved patios, driveways etc.

    Can you rent a concrete vibrator?

    Reset your first course level on a couple inches of paver base. Fill the cores with slag. Vibrate them to lock the stone in place. Set your second course, fill, vibe. Pull your liner up onto the top of the block wall you just built. Use construction adhesive, polyurthane, to cement it to the blocks. Then use more adhesive to set a top block, but use 4" solids, maybe even a double course of 4" solids seperated by your red paving stones you're using now.

    You just got eight more inches of water and will have eight or ten inches of freeboard to maybe stop jumpers.

    I wouldn't even pull your rebar; it's already in place. If you want to worry about your block falling apart again add construction adhesive to all of the block joints as you are assembling. You want to worry more or try going higher? Double the thickness of the wall, stagger the joints, go higher.

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  10. #10
    Honmei Brutuscz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitten View Post
    Ok Doc.

    Can you get slag stone? Maybe called paver base or something else in your area? The material paver contractors would use as the base for their interlocking paved patios, driveways etc.

    Can you rent a concrete vibrator?

    Reset your first course level on a couple inches of paver base. Fill the cores with slag. Vibrate them to lock the stone in place. Set your second course, fill, vibe. Pull your liner up onto the top of the block wall you just built. Use construction adhesive, polyurthane, to cement it to the blocks. Then use more adhesive to set a top block, but use 4" solids, maybe even a double course of 4" solids seperated by your red paving stones you're using now.

    You just got eight more inches of water and will have eight or ten inches of freeboard to maybe stop jumpers.

    I wouldn't even pull your rebar; it's already in place. If you want to worry about your block falling apart again add construction adhesive to all of the block joints as you are assembling. You want to worry more or try going higher? Double the thickness of the wall, stagger the joints, go higher.

    Say Hi to Steve.
    Ok...I can get the paver base in my area. Lowe's has it...I'm sure home depot as well. Never used a concrete vibrator (had a girlfriend in college with one...her nickname was stoney..lol ) Anywho...Use the same stuff inside the blocks as under them? Then use the vibrator. Sounds do-able. You think the concrete adhesive will do the job? I will try this...sounds like a plan I can actually handle...maybe..lol. Thanks for the help. You know Steve Stone? He's a great guy. I might beg him for help as well...lol.

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