Pump suction problems - Page 2 - Koi Forum - Koi-Bito Magazine

farne230 · 01-24-2008

Thanks to all of you for hanging in there to solve this problem. I agree with all of your comments, but I will check out each of these possible solutions in an order which will require the least amount of damage and work. I have sketched the setup below to help us decide where the problem may be (see sketch attached).

I am observing bubbles in the swing valve entering the vortex. I have loosen, and added pipe tape to each connection, still have bubbles. In filter mode the pump is pulsating, drops to bottom and recharges to inlet level.

I am thinking the vacume leak may be underground and or the swing valve between pond and above groud pipping may be bad.

farne230 · 01-30-2008

I started another post asking what prefilters if any others use with bakki showers (considering pulling mine out to increase flow).

Update: Last weekend I borrowed a large strap wrench, swapped pumps, no change in flow, and later cracked the swing valve. I dismantled all the pipping. System is off line.

So what is my next move:

1. buy all new fittings and put system back the way it was?
2. Same as above but use a surface cap swing valve to eliminate craking couplings in the future?
3. Repipe the system some how to increase flow (see sketch), maybe take out the backwash pipping and valves, pipe directly to vortex (lower connection) then pipe return to pump inlet no valves, except at discharge (two way). I would leave the discharge valve on vortex. Also considered raising equipment up a cinder block (4-1/2" or higher, but I think this will make it worse) to assure during a flood equipment is dry.

What do you suggest?

kent wallace · 01-30-2008

I looked at the pic on your other thread and intake restriction can be a problem. Do you know the suction head created by one of those Vortexes? Are the other pumps in the system connected to similar "Vortexes"?

farne230 · 01-31-2008

Yes, each filter line to bakki originates from bottom drains and run through the same vortex pressure prefilter. I moved the pump in question to the filter circuit closest to the bakki shower which always has worked fine. The only differance between the two set ups is the extra distance to the bottom drain (10'). I did notice that when we replace the check valve on the filter circuit in question (middle one) the intake (coming out of the ground) was reduced form 3" to 2" 90< elbow. The suction head of vortex, the intake line is about 2ft above the pond water level, and the top of vortex is about 3ft above water level. The bakki is about 7ft above the pump.

I would like to fix this problem this weekend:

1. Should I disconnect the 3" intake line underground just after the check valve and try and snake the lines to the bottom drain?

2. Do I hook up the system just like it was?

3. Or is there another way to improve flow & or prefiltration?

Bob

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01-24-2008	#11 (permalink)
farne230 Tategoi Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 303	Thanks to all of you for hanging in there to solve this problem. I agree with all of your comments, but I will check out each of these possible solutions in an order which will require the least amount of damage and work. I have sketched the setup below to help us decide where the problem may be (see sketch attached). I am observing bubbles in the swing valve entering the vortex. I have loosen, and added pipe tape to each connection, still have bubbles. In filter mode the pump is pulsating, drops to bottom and recharges to inlet level. I am thinking the vacume leak may be underground and or the swing valve between pond and above groud pipping may be bad.

01-30-2008	#12 (permalink)
farne230 Tategoi Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 303	I started another post asking what prefilters if any others use with bakki showers (considering pulling mine out to increase flow). Update: Last weekend I borrowed a large strap wrench, swapped pumps, no change in flow, and later cracked the swing valve. I dismantled all the pipping. System is off line. So what is my next move: 1. buy all new fittings and put system back the way it was? 2. Same as above but use a surface cap swing valve to eliminate craking couplings in the future? 3. Repipe the system some how to increase flow (see sketch), maybe take out the backwash pipping and valves, pipe directly to vortex (lower connection) then pipe return to pump inlet no valves, except at discharge (two way). I would leave the discharge valve on vortex. Also considered raising equipment up a cinder block (4-1/2" or higher, but I think this will make it worse) to assure during a flood equipment is dry. What do you suggest?

01-30-2008	#13 (permalink)
kent wallace Nisai Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 88	I looked at the pic on your other thread and intake restriction can be a problem. Do you know the suction head created by one of those Vortexes? Are the other pumps in the system connected to similar "Vortexes"?

01-31-2008	#14 (permalink)
farne230 Tategoi Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 303	Yes, each filter line to bakki originates from bottom drains and run through the same vortex pressure prefilter. I moved the pump in question to the filter circuit closest to the bakki shower which always has worked fine. The only differance between the two set ups is the extra distance to the bottom drain (10'). I did notice that when we replace the check valve on the filter circuit in question (middle one) the intake (coming out of the ground) was reduced form 3" to 2" 90< elbow. The suction head of vortex, the intake line is about 2ft above the pond water level, and the top of vortex is about 3ft above water level. The bakki is about 7ft above the pump. I would like to fix this problem this weekend: 1. Should I disconnect the 3" intake line underground just after the check valve and try and snake the lines to the bottom drain? 2. Do I hook up the system just like it was? 3. Or is there another way to improve flow & or prefiltration? Bob