No announcement yet.

Kaldnes K1

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Kaldnes K1

    I have recently completed construction of my new pond. It measures 4m wide, 7m lond and 2.75m at the deepest part. For the filter media, I use only kaldnes k1, which I put into 6 vortexes.
    Problem is, even after one week, the K1 still remain afloat with the top layer rising above water level. For the past 3 days, I tried turning off the aeration. It is now still floating, though not as bad as when the aeration is on.
    My questions, to those who have experienced using K1:
    1. how many days is needed for the K1 to loose its floating nature and gain its buoyant characteristic?
    2. for aeration, is it 'the more the better' or, simply moderate aeration is enough?
    Thanks in advance to every one.
  • #2

    Hi Kiky,

    Although I only have a small add-on filter using K1 I still suffered the same problem. It was overcome by removing much of the K1 for a time, letting the remainder settle down into the fluid motion we expect and then adding more K1 until over a period of time until critical mass was reached.
    This probably took a week and might have taken less had I had the time. I generally added the additional K1 in the evening and found that by the next day it had been assimilated into the mass ready for more.

    There came a point where too much K1 caused the condition you describe again. At which time I stopped. I guess its all down to a balance of K1 to water volume + rate of airflow.

    good luck
    South East Koi Club


    • #3

      Kiky, K1 will take a little longer in 'immature’ water compared to ‘mature’. So in a new pond, new water situation, expect a little longer before the media becomes heavy enough to take on it neutral slightly floating tendency.
      As Bern suggests, it best to take some out, if there is a danger of the churning air pushing the floating media out of the vortex, onto the floor.
      With regard to air, I have found that less is more effective and stopps for the main any chances of the media ‘shedding’ as has been found by some. The method I have found best is to valve the air feed to the Kaldnes chamber and up the air flow slowly, so that all media is 'moving', but not bubbling furiously.


      • #4

        To Bern,
        Thanks for your suggestion. Since it's already night time here at my place, I 'll try to do it tomorrow. I hope it'll work out fine as soon as possible, as I am already so impatient to put in all my koi's in the new pond.

        To Maurice,
        Thanks for the information. Since mine is definitely new water, I guess I have to be more patient then. As for aeration, I am frankly a bit surprised that Less is more effective. I thought to make the K1 a 'moving bed filter' air has to be as strong as possible. Anywhere, whether it's 'less' or 'more' is very subjective as the yardstick is very personal, right? But I'll try as you suggested; to increase air gradually!


        • #5


          Kiky the Kaldnes has a very strict limit on media to water there are many sites with quantity calculators. this is one site with such a feature. You can squeeze a bit more than suggested but then you really nead a lot of air movement to suspend and create the boiling/ moving bed effect. I have a 60 gallon chamber with 4 cubic feet of k1 and find it a good amount of media .I also have 2.5 cubic feet per minute of air flow keeping it all moving. As stated in above post A mature pond will tend to make the high floatation go away quicker. With high air movement the media will go through a liquification and break the tension that hold it together as a floating mass and cause it to sink. So use the calculator and strive for higher air flow.
          " I'd rather a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy "


          • #6

            Lots of good info here posted already. the only other thing I could add
            is that fish load ( available food for the media/bacteria) and water temps
            also play a role as to how well this system kicks in once you get past
            the initial question of amount of air and media. I have seen a fully functioning filter hampered because the owner decided it needed more air
            and within two days of hard boiling took it's color from a nice brown to
            the lightest tan sluffing off the media he was trying to build. don't listen to miss piggy...sometimes more "is not enough"'s too much!
            bottom line is I do think you'll be pleased with the results once you get thru your learning phase. In this cracy hobby of ours, I; like Bern, feel comfortable in adding to successful systems as opposed to the all my eggs in one basket concept. I think different materials,methods etc provide different climates for different colonies of bacteria to establish
            and flourish and it gives us a more balanced system. as we see in k1,trickle towers and bh showers, air plays a prominent part of a healthy system. i look forward to the time your an old hand at your system and can give someone just starting your experiences from what you've learned. it just takes time....
            Dick Benbow


            • #7


              I think is is also important to note that the way in which the kaldnes is utilized is very important as well. It can be used as a filtering element as well in a bead filter type/ swimming pool setup. In this manner it is a mechanical filter primarily it is when you take it to the next stage that the biological level is reached. Very important to send mechanically clean water to the kaldes chamber... All of the water should have all pre biologic filtration complete including uv if used. The media will oterwise tend to cake up and clog with suspended fine solids and this is not where you want that to happen. The only treat ment following the kaldnes chamber I can think of as being beneficial is to run a counter current foam fractitioner/ protein skimmer. This will aid in the removal of the dead bacteria and other compounds that are mechanically scrubbed form the outside edges of the media as it churns in its bath of air and water. Seeing that a pump is used for the media chamber a line can be split off to run the airstone in the fractitioner. Now your wonderfully clean water is ready to return to your pond. In my setup it returns from a pipe into an upper pond that also catches the water that comes off my millhouse wheel.
              " I'd rather a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy "


              • #8

                There are lots of information here which I hope can help me to understand more of this hobby. Funny thing is that as far as I and my dealers know, I am probably the first person in my country who dare to use K1. The standard in Indonesia is usually Jappanese mat.

                For Mike, yes I have use the calculator and the needed volume of the K1 is 30% the chamber's volume. According to brochures from Evolution Aqua, the range of volume of K1 is from a minimum of 30% to a maximum of about 67% (if I remember correctly). I don't know how to calculate gallon/feet measurement as I am used to metric system, but I think your 4 cubic feet for 60 gallon is way too little. Sorry if I am wrong.

                To speed up the maturing process, today I have also put in nitrifying bacteria in the media and see what will happen in a few days to come.


                • #9


                  kiky Glad to see you bravely going where no one has gone before in your country. At a conversion of 6.7 gallons per cubic foot my media can be looked at as 26.8 gallons in a 60 gallon chamber - on the edge of the high side but getting the movement is what is important and I have that. good luck, MIke
                  " I'd rather a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy "


                  • #10

                    1 cubic foot holds 7.48 US gallons (not 6.7), so what you really have is 30 gallons of media in a 60 gallon chamber. I have the same ratio (6 cubic feet in a 90 gallon chamber) and find it to be as much as I would want to put in that chamber. I have reached down into the chamber and it feels as if the media is evenly distributed within the chamber. Anymore and I would think that it would not keep its fluid nature. When I brought mine up from 4 cubic feet to 6 cubic feet, the aerator I had on it (AES SL22 - 40lpm) did not keep it as fluid as desired. Portions would sit stagnant for minutes at a time, so I switched to a SL44 (80lpm) and it seems to keep the media moving well without thrashing it too much.

                    Orlando, FL


                    • #11


                      We are not talking about US gallons. Imperial gallons.


                      • #12

                        Forgive me, I assumed that since Mike is from NJ that he was talking US gallons. If he is talking Imperial gallons, then the numbers are still not quite right (according to the values I always use, double checked via a conversion calculator):

                        1 cubic foot = 7.48 US gallons = 6.23 Imp gallons

                        Just a stickler for using the right conversions. Here is a great conversion calculator that converts 1 measure into just about everything:


                        Orlando, FL


                        • #13


                          my mind was on the other side of the pond.... 7.5 per cu ft is more like it around here... puts me closer to the high edge of media versus water. still moves well and more is better for the fish right?
                          " I'd rather a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy "


                          • #14

                            So Mike your K1 to chamber volume is almost 50%. I think I'll try that percentage by gradually adding more K1 once it start to settle down. By today I notice that it has gone down a bit. Hopefully it will be ok by the end of this week.

                            One more thing, for air pump I am using TAKATSUKI HIBLOW. But I don't find the liter per minute specification, beside the wattage, which is 220w and 190w respectively. How do I know how many litres per minte this pump produce?


                            • #15

                              So Mike your K1 is almost 50% the chamber volume. I think I'll also try to get that percentage by gradually adding the K1 once it is settled.

                              One more thing, how do I know my air pumps deliver how many litre per minute? My TAKATSUKI HIBLOW only specify its wattage, which, one is 220w, two are 190w and another one 80w respectively (I use 4 pumps altogether for the whole pond).


                              All content and images copyright of: